The patch pocket

Patch pockets

Jean Paul Gautlier, Couture spring 2010

The patch pocket can be altered in both size and shape. It can also be made in a contrasting color or texture to give added interest to a jacket or coat. The design options for a patch pocket are endless but poorly constructed will kill the design. If you are following my book, Tailored Fashion Design turn to page 106 for the Patch Pocket. The book is showing you slip stitching the pocket to the garment and the Inside out patch pocket. This is the pocket I'm starting with but taking it a little further. 

Maison Margiela Spring R-T-W 2016 

Step 1
Make the pattern for your patch pocket. This time the placement  position of the pocket is 2 1/2 inches (6.5 cm) down from the waistline and 3/4 inch (1.75 cm) forward of the front dart . This pocket can extend down to or even past the hem line.The bottom of the pocket can be square or rounded. It is important to notch both sides of the pocket before and after the bottom curve or point and at the bottom centre point. Do not add seam allowance or top hem allowance.
This pattern piece will be used as a template on your jacket front.


Step 2
Place the template front down onto the jacket matching the placement markings and chalk around the edge. Make sure you chalk mark all the notch points.








Step 3
Add 3/8 inch (1 cm) of seam allowance to the sides and bottom of the template from Step 1. Add 1-2 inch (2.5-5 cm) top hem allowance. Cut out in your fashion fabric. 







Step 4
Cut the lining pattern for the pocket minus the to hem allowance but do add seam allowance to the top of the pattern. Cut out in your lining fabric.

Interface the top hem allowance with either a fusible interfacing or pocketing fabric; place the interfacing so that it extends past the top hem fold line into the pocket itself for approximately 1/2 inch ( 1.2 cm)

Step 5

Place the raw edge of the pocket seam allowance on to the chalked line, right sides together matching the top fold line of the pocket to the top chalk line; beginning with a back tack stitch down the first side using a 3/8 inch (1 cm) seam allowance and a stitch length of 3mm keeping the raw edge on the chalk line down to the first notch

 ease the seam allowance in around the corner across to the next notch and across to the centre notch point. Continue stitching until you reach the top fold line on the opposite side of your pocket and back tack.

Step 6

Right sides together attach the lining to the bottom edge of the hem line, starting and ending with a back tack; press the seam allowance open 

Step 7

Place one hand inside the pocket and catch hold of the bottom seam allowance, pull the pocket inside out; turn in the seam allowance on the lining and top hem and pin in place along the line of stitching matching the notch points; Slip stitch in place and turn the pocket back to the right side, press.

The pocket is now finished or you can add top stitching or pick stitching to the pocket.

Net-a -porter.com, J. Crew

patched chest pocket

Chanel Pre-Fall 2015
If you are working with a loosely woven fabric
the Inside out pocket is the best pocket to use.

Haider Ackermann Fall 2013
Think of adding a centre pleat and
pocket flap

Bellows Pocket

Haider Ackermann Fall 2013
Shown here with flaps, added zippers
and a centre pleat

The bellows pocket is a form of patch pocket inspired from military uniforms and men's shooting jackets. It is pleated down the side and bottom edges so that it can expand. 

Step 1

Accuracy in making the pattern for this pocket is

really important. I'm showing it here with a 1 inch (2.5 cm) top hem but generally I will make the hem 2 inches (5 cm) because this pocket is not lined. There I have added a 1 inch (2.5) pleat and then cut out the bulk. The seam allowance down the sides and across the bottom is 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) which I also shaped to remove the bulk. Use a 1/4 inch (6 mm) seam allowance in the pleat angle.

Step 2

Cut the pocket out in fashion fabric and fuse fusible interfacing to the back of the top hem of the pocket.
With the right sides together fold the pleat angle in half and using a 2.5 mm stitch length and a 1/4 inch (6 mm) seam allowance stitch down to the point, turn and down to the 1/2 inch seam line, turn and stitch to the raw edge, beginning and ending with a back tack;




 clip into the first turn and trim the fabric back at the second turn



Step 3

Turn the fabric to the right side and press in the pleats; Fold the seam allowance towards the back or inside of the pocket and press; attach the pocket  to the garment by stitching close to folded edge down one side across the bottom and up the other side starting and finishing with a back tack

Here I have stitched the pleat down at the  top hem fold line, while this works it looks bulky and messy so going back to the pattern you will see that I have removed the bulk from the pleat into the hem facing.

Finish by top stitching close to the fold of the top pleat to hold the pocket in place or leave un-stitched as Haider Ackermann's bellow pocket

1940s Neapolitan tailored Belted back jacket
 with gathered pleating and 3 bellow patch pockets

Bookster Bespoke Styling Options

tweed-jacket.com

 

Rounded bellows pocket with buttoned flap

Inverted centre pleat and buttoned flap
with all the stripes of the tweed window pane fabric matching

Next week is all about the fit.

The Trouser double piped back pocket

This pocket is found on the back of men's trousers. It sits flat to the body with the pocket bag extending into the waistline.

The first step is to mark the pocket placement.

As you can see here the placement line sits at the bottom of the dart.









Make the pocket bag 2 inches (5cm) wider than the pocket placement line by the depth that you want your pocket. Draw up to the waistline from the placement line. Extend this line up 1/4 inch (6mm) past the waistline. Round the bottom corners of the pocket bag. Cut one back and one top pocket bag from pocketing or muslin fabric.







Make the pocket piping and pocket back the width of the pocket bag at the placement line and

approximately 4 inches long.

• Mark the pocket placement line with chalk on the wrong side of the fabric; draw a  parallel chalk line 1/4 inch (6mm) up from  the pocket placement line; repeat drawing a parallel line 1/4 inch (6mm) below the pocket placement line. Draw  a vertical line connecting the to parallel lines at both ends of the pocket placement line to mark the ends of the pocket.
•  This makes a stitching template for the piping.

To make the pocket

Make the dart, if there is one on the back trouser.

Place the back pocket bag on the wrong side of the back trouser matching the pocket placement line.









 Turn your work to the right side; with right sides together and matching the pocket placement line pin the pocket piping in place.









Machine stitch along the chalk line starting approximately half way across the top line, down the side, across the bottom line, up the side and across the top line, finishing approximately 1/2 -1 inch (1-2.5cm) past the start point so that the stitching over laps.












Cut across the pocket placement line finishing 1/2 inch (1cm)  from the ends. Clip carefully out to the stitch at the corner on all four corners.

Press the seam allowance flat and pull the piping though to the wrong side or back.

Bring the piping down over the seam allowance to make the piping, press. Repeat with the top piping by taking it up over the seam allowance, press and pin the folds in place at all four corners.

Pull the triangle corners out towards the sides of the pocket bag and secure with machine stitching.

Machine stitch the piping fabric lower edge to the pocket bag to hold in place. Machine stitch another row of stitch just down from the lower piping as shown.






At this point if you want to make a buttoned back piped pocket, make the buttonhole.


  Place the pocket back piece onto the top pocket bag so that it will sit behind the pocket opening. Turn the lower raw edge under to neaten and secure to the top pocket bag with machine stitching close to the edge.








Pull the pocket bag thought the pocket opening.

Place the pocket top onto the back pocket bag  so that the edges are matching, the pocket back will be facing you; pin in place and secure with machine stitching 1/4 inch (6mm) in from the raw edge.








Pull the pocket bag back though the pocket opening and press around the pocket edge.










 Machine stitch around the edge of the pocket bag creating a french seam

The finished pocket

Turn your work to the right side. Create a machine back tack at one end of the pocket stitching though all layers of the pocket on the edge of the trouser, stitch in the ditch across the top of the pocket where the piping attaches to the trouser, back tack the down the end of the pocket on the trouser side of the pocket.

The finished back of the pocket

.

 .

Welt pocket

 Welt pockets

Alexander Wang autumn-winter 2013 RTW

A welt pocket is a small flat pocket commonly found on the breast of a mans suit jacket. It is also a great choice of pocket for a chopped jacket where the pocket is going to sit at the waist line or just above as it will add no bulk.The welt pocket also works well on slim fitting pants and skirts.

Chanel autumn-winter-2013/couture

 Traditionally a folded handkerchief also known as a pocket square is worn in the welt pocket of a man's jacket or coat.







 The welt pocket can be placed at the waist as in this jacket that also has a welt chest pocket. The pockets blend in to the front taking nothing away from the clean cut and design of the jacket.

Balmain spring-summer-2012 RTW

Slanted and placed at the hip for a slimming effect on skirts, pants and coats in both men's and women's wear



The welt can also be used as part of an inseam pocket.

Yves-Saint-Laurent  autumn-winter-2011 RTW

As with all pockets the first step is to decide where and at what angle you want the pocket and to draw a placement line.

The construction - making the welt

Working with the fusible interfacing measure the length and width of the pocket. The traditional finished width for a welt pocket  is 1 inch (2.5cm). The finished length for a breast pocket is 4-4 1/2 inches and 6-61/2 inches for a lower hip pocket welt.
Using the edge of the fusible interfacing draw the finished welt for your pocket adding 3/8 inch (1cm) to the length, here I've draw a welt 4 1/2 inches (5.2cm x 1 3/8 inch (3.5cm); because welt pockets are mostly set angled 1/2 inch or more in their placement draw a line  from the lower edge that angles over 1/4 inch (.6cm)  on the top edge; repeat at the other end reversing the angle so that the lower edge is 1/4 inch  (.6cm) in from the line marking the side of your welt; cut out.

Place the fusible interfacing onto the wrong side of the fashion fabric matching the stripe or check with the coat front if there is one and fuse in place; measure up from the bottom edge of the fusible interfacing 3/8 inch (1cm) and using chalk draw a line across the bottom of the welt; measure out on each side of the fusible 1/4 inch (.6cm)  and draw in the seam allowances; measure up from the top edge of the fusible 3/4 inch (2cm) and draw a line across the top of the welt; cut along the chalk lines.



Cut 2 pocket bags 1/2 inch (1.2cm) wider than the length of the welt; because the pocket is set on a 1/2 inch (1.2cm) angle measure down one side of the top of the pocket bag 1/2 inch (1.2cm);  draw in the new top line of the pocket bag;








place one of the pocket bags to the top of the welt so that the pocket bag will hang straight down inside the garment when finished, stitch across the top edge with a 1/4 inch (.6cm) seam allowance


press the seam allowance open.


Fold the fashion fabric back on itself using the top edge of the fusible interfacing as a guide line; Stitch down the sides of the welt from the top fold line to the bottom edge of the fusible interfacing securing both ends of the stitching.
Cutting at a 45 degree angle remove the top folded edge of the seam allowance at both sides; clip into the stitching at the lower edge of the welt cutting though the pocket bag





 press the seams open and turn to the right side and press the welt  flat.




You have made the welt now attach it to the garment.





With the right sides together and the welt upside down place the line drawn across the fusible interfacing onto the pocket placement line;  stitch across the line from one edge of the fusible interfacing to the other making sure to secure both ends of the stitching

Place the other pocket bag so that its top edge is sitting under the seam allowance of the welt butting up to the stitching line; measure in at both ends of the welt 1/2 inch (1.2cm) and mark onto the pocket bag, stitch across the pocket bag from one mark to the other being careful not to stitch into the welt seam allowance and securing the stitching at both ends.



Fold the seam allowance back out of the way and cut though the garment down the center of the two rows of stitching beginning at the center and finishing approximately 1/4 inch (.6cm) in from the end of the stitching; clip into the stitching at all 4 corners.







Pull both the pocket bags to the back of the garment though the cut; match the edges of the pocket bags up and stitch around the edges securing both edges of the stitch.


Finish the welt by slip stitching the sides to the garment or attaching to the garment with machine stitching down both side edges, press.








.