Tailoring 101, Woman'swear
 Saint Laurent created the iconic 'Le Smoking' tuxedo in 1966. Hedi Slimane's contemporary update on the blazer has slightly cropped sleeves and is fully lined in silk. Wear this timeless design with everything from tailored pants to skinny jeans. Saint Laurent, Net-a-porter |
Over the next 16 weeks I'm going to create weekly posts that follow the tailoring class that I'm currently teaching. Please join in and follow my class. Ask me questions and share your work.
Association of Sewing & Design Professionals
To address the many questions both students and friends have asked, I wrote a college textbook on tailoring titled Tailored Fashion Design,
published by Fairchild Books.
This book begins with researching the inspiration and design, and this is where my students will be starting work on in class.
With tailored jackets on every designers runway finding inspiration is quick and easy.
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| Prada Fall/Winter 2014 |
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Schiaparelli Fall couture 2015 |
Chapter three in Tailored Fashion Design, is all about fabric selection. Because this is a beginning tailoring class I do suggest using a wool flannel, tweed or other woolen material rather than a worsted, crepe or fine 120's. Also choose a fabric that is at least 60% wool if not 1005%. Why wool? because it responds well to streaming, stretching and shrinking. Remember that your design may take extra fabric if the check, stripe has to be matched.
I also put together a tailoring kit with all the supplies needed for this class other than your fashion fabric and lining. It is available to purchase at MaisonPamela@etsy.com. Use this kit wisely and you will have enough supplies for more than one jacket.
I have done my research and chosen to make a version of Saint Laurent's ' Le smoking' tuxedo. I am also going to use the semi fitting woman's block that comes with my book, Tailored Fashion Design.
The design choice is yours -
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| Add an asymmetrical peplum over the jacket skirt Dice Kayek Spring/summer couture 2016 |
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| Add a cape over the sleeve Dice Kayek Spring/summer couture 2016 |
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| add some cutouts and bring in texture with another fabric Atelier Versace couture spring/summer 2016 |
Starting with the jacket front block.
The first change I make is to angle back the front edge of the jacket to the centre front line. If I was making a double breasted front I would keep this as a straight line, but this is a design decision. I want a 3 button closure on my jacket front. To do this extend the centre front line up from the waistline; measure up from the button placement on the waistline to where you want the top button to sit. I measured up 3 inches (8 cm) but the chose is yours. Then repeat by measuring down from the button placement on the waistline towards the hem and mark the lower button placement. By lengthening the centre front line up from the waistline you can decide where you want the lapel on your jacket to start.
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| Christian Lacroix Fall 2001 R-T-W This coat is buttoned below the waist |
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| Dolce and Gabbana Fall/ winter 2015/6 R-T-W
The jacket has a high closure from a double breasted front.
The lapels have been rounded.
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| Stella McCartney 2011 R-T-W This jacket buttons at the waist |
I want the pocket line to be on more of an angle than a straight line. This will help to create the illusion of slimmer hips. So my next step is to re-draw the pocket placement lines.
Shaping the lapel, adding a peak and altering the roll line.The break point is where the lapel is going to roll back onto the jacket front. Measure up the centre front line from the top button placement mark one inch (2.5cm) and draw in the new roll line if changing as I have. I have also added a peak on the gorge line.
The next step is to create the collar. After drafting the collar I decided to round the edge like a shawl collar.The peak on the gorge line now rounds back following the rounded edge of the collar. After I copy the collar onto paper I will spread the edge to get a nice shawl like lapel into collar.
Not sure how to draft your collar design, ask me.
You may want to make a dart in the roll line. The point of the dart will finish approx. 3 1/2 inches (9cm) up from the break point if this point is sitting at the waistline. It will shorten if this break point is raised.
You can also shape the roll line as shown in green to round the front neckline. This is also a good way to add a larger lapel that sits under a narrower lapel.
the collar with the point angled down
towards the bust point. Adding this dart
can give more shape to the bust line.
The other block that comes with my book Tailored fashion design is a fitted jacket. The seam joining the centre front and side front panels curves down over the bust point. This can be changed so that the side front panel is cut to attach to the front panel closer to the side of the jacket. To keep the bust shape a small dart is added to the centre front panel that I have marked in green on the illustration. The red line is showing after you have closed the armhole opening and re-opened the shoulder dart. Cut down the new side panel line to the bust line then cut along this line. Close the shoulder dart. Lower the bust dart.
In class we start sampling the pockets starting with the double piped pocket. you will find the information on now to make this pocket both in Tailored fashion design, on page 97 and in a previous post.
Continue to work on your jacket pattern and make it into a toile for fitting week three. Practice making a double pocket pocket with and without a flap. Post photos of your sample pockets and your jacket design. I will be going over this pocket again next week.
Menswear 101 - I will post as part of week two.
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| Thom Brown menswear Fall 2016 |
Images - http://www.vogue.co.uk/ and http://www.vogue.com/
