Sunday, February 23, 2020

The Trouser double piped back pocket




This pocket is found on the back of men's trousers. It sits flat to the body with the pocket bag extending into the waistline.

The first step is to mark the pocket placement.

As you can see here the placement line sits at the bottom of the dart.









Make the pocket bag 2 inches (5cm) wider than the pocket placement line by the depth that you want your pocket. Draw up to the waistline from the placement line. Extend this line up 1/4 inch (6mm) past the waistline. Round the bottom corners of the pocket bag. Cut one back and one top pocket bag from pocketing or muslin fabric.







Make the pocket piping and pocket back the width of the pocket bag at the placement line and

approximately 4 inches long.
  • Mark the pocket placement line with chalk on the wrong side of the fabric; draw a  parallel chalk line 1/4 inch (6mm) up from  the pocket placement line; repeat drawing a parallel line 1/4 inch (6mm) below the pocket placement line. Draw  a vertical line connecting the to parallel lines at both ends of the pocket placement line to mark the ends of the pocket.
  •  This makes a stitching template for the piping.


To make the pocket


Make the dart, if there is one on the back trouser.

Place the back pocket bag on the wrong side of the back trouser matching the pocket placement line.









 Turn your work to the right side; with right sides together and matching the pocket placement line pin the pocket piping in place.









Machine stitch along the chalk line starting approximately half way across the top line, down the side, across the bottom line, up the side and across the top line, finishing approximately 1/2 -1 inch (1-2.5cm) past the start point so that the stitching over laps.












Cut across the pocket placement line finishing 1/2 inch (1cm)  from the ends. Clip carefully out to the stitch at the corner on all four corners.


Press the seam allowance flat and pull the piping though to the wrong side or back.

Bring the piping down over the seam allowance to make the piping, press. Repeat with the top piping by taking it up over the seam allowance, press and pin the folds in place at all four corners.







Pull the triangle corners out towards the sides of the pocket bag and secure with machine stitching.


Machine stitch the piping fabric lower edge to the pocket bag to hold in place. Machine stitch another row of stitch just down from the lower piping as shown.






At this point if you want to make a buttoned back piped pocket, make the buttonhole.


  Place the pocket back piece onto the top pocket bag so that it will sit behind the pocket opening. Turn the lower raw edge under to neaten and secure to the top pocket bag with machine stitching close to the edge.








Pull the pocket bag thought the pocket opening.


Place the pocket top onto the back pocket bag  so that the edges are matching, the pocket back will be facing you; pin in place and secure with machine stitching 1/4 inch (6mm) in from the raw edge.








Pull the pocket bag back though the pocket opening and press around the pocket edge.










 Machine stitch around the edge of the pocket bag creating a french seam

The finished pocket
Turn your work to the right side. Create a machine back tack at one end of the pocket stitching though all layers of the pocket on the edge of the trouser, stitch in the ditch across the top of the pocket where the piping attaches to the trouser, back tack the down the end of the pocket on the trouser side of the pocket.



The finished back of the pocket

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