Welt pocket

 Welt pockets

Alexander Wang autumn-winter 2013 RTW

A welt pocket is a small flat pocket commonly found on the breast of a man's suit jacket. It is also a great choice of pocket for a cropped jacket where the pocket is going to sit at the waistline or just above, as it will add no bulk. The welt pocket also works well on slim-fitting pants and skirts.

 Traditionally, a folded handkerchief, also known as a pocket square, is worn in the welt pocket of a man's jacket or coat.







 The welt pocket can be placed at the waist, as in this jacket that also has a welt chest pocket. The pockets blend into the front, taking nothing away from the clean cut and design of the jacket.

Balmain spring-summer-2012 RTW

Slanted and placed at the hip for a slimming effect on skirts, pants and coats in both men's and women's wear



The welt can also be used as part of an inseam pocket.

Yves-Saint-Laurent  autumn-winter-2011 RTW

As with all pockets, the first step is to decide where and at what angle you want the pocket to sit, before drawing a placement line on your paper pattern.

The construction - making the welt

Begin with the fusible interfacing; measure the length and width of the welt pocket marked on the paper pattern. The traditional finished width for a welt pocket is 1 inch (2.5cm). The finished length for a breast pocket is 4-4 1/2 inches (10 cm- 11.43 cm) and 6-61/2 inches (15 cm-16.5 cm) for a lower hip pocket welt. Or the measurement taken by measuring over the back of the hand.

Using the edge of the fusible interfacing draw the finished welt for your pocket adding 3/8 inch (1cm) to the length, here I've draw a welt 4 1/2 inches (5.2cm x 1 3/8 inch (3.5cm); because welt pockets are mostly set angled 1/2 inch or more in their placement draw a line from the lower edge that angles over 1/4 inch (.6cm)  on the top edge; repeat at the other end reversing the angle so that the lower edge is 1/4 inch  (.6cm) in from the line marking the side of your welt; cut out.

Place the fusible interfacing onto the wrong side of the fashion fabric matching the stripe or check with the coat front if there is one and fuse in place; measure up from the bottom edge of the fusible interfacing 3/8 inch (1cm) and using chalk draw a line across the bottom of the welt; measure out on each side of the fusible 1/4 inch (.6cm)  and draw in the seam allowances; measure up from the top edge of the fusible 3/4 inch (2cm) and draw a line across the top of the welt; cut along the chalk lines.



Cut 2 pocket bags 1/2 inch (1.2cm) wider than the length of the welt; because the pocket is set on a 1/2 inch (1.2cm) angle, measure down one side of the top of the pocket bag 1/2 inch (1.2cm);  draw in the new top line of the pocket bag;








place one of the pocket bags to the top of the welt so that the pocket bag will hang straight down inside the garment when finished, stitch across the top edge with a 1/4 inch (.6cm) seam allowance


press the seam allowance open.


Fold the fashion fabric back on itself using the top edge of the fusible interfacing as a guide line; Stitch down the sides of the welt from the top fold line to the bottom edge of the fusible interfacing securing both ends of the stitching.
Cutting at a 45 degree angle remove the top folded edge of the seam allowance at both sides; clip into the stitching at the lower edge of the welt cutting though the pocket bag





 press the seams open and turn to the right side and press the welt  flat.




You have made the welt now attach it to the garment.





With the right sides together and the welt upside down place the line drawn across the fusible interfacing onto the pocket placement line;  stitch across the line from one edge of the fusible interfacing to the other making sure to secure both ends of the stitching

Place the other pocket bag so that its top edge is sitting under the seam allowance of the welt butting up to the stitching line; measure in at both ends of the welt 1/2 inch (1.2cm) and mark onto the pocket bag, stitch across the pocket bag from one mark to the other being careful not to stitch into the welt seam allowance and securing the stitching at both ends.



Fold the seam allowance back out of the way and cut though the garment down the center of the two rows of stitching beginning at the center and finishing approximately 1/4 inch (.6cm) in from the end of the stitching; clip into the stitching at all 4 corners.







Pull both the pocket bags to the back of the garment though the cut; match the edges of the pocket bags up and stitch around the edges securing both edges of the stitch.


Finish the welt by slip stitching the sides to the garment or attaching to the garment with machine stitching down both side edges, press.








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