pamela powell : The patch pocket

Patch pockets

Jean Paul Gautlier, Couture spring 2010

The patch pocket can be altered in both size and shape. It can also be made in a contrasting color or texture to give added interest to a jacket or coat. The design options for a patch pocket are endless but poorly constructed will kill the design. If you are following my book, Tailored Fashion Design turn to page 106 for the Patch Pocket. The book is showing you slip stitching the pocket to the garment and the Inside out patch pocket. This is the pocket I'm starting with but taking it a little further.

Maison Margiela Spring R-T-W 2016

Step 1
Make the pattern for your patch pocket. This time the placement position of the pocket is 2 1/2 inches (6.5 cm) down from the waistline and 3/4 inch (1.75 cm) forward of the front dart . This pocket can extend down to or even past the hem line.The bottom of the pocket can be square or rounded. It is important to notch both sides of the pocket before and after the bottom curve or point and at the bottom centre point. Do not add seam allowance or top hem allowance.
This pattern piece will be used as a template on your jacket front.

Step 2

Place the template front down onto the jacket matching the placement markings and chalk around the edge. Make sure you chalk mark all the notch points.

Step 3

Add 3/8 inch (1 cm) of seam allowance to the sides and bottom of the template from Step 1. Add 1-2 inch (2.5-5 cm) top hem allowance. Cut out in your fashion fabric.

Step 4
Cut the lining pattern for the pocket minus the to hem allowance but do add seam allowance to the top of the pattern. Cut out in your lining fabric.

Interface the top hem allowance with either a fusible interfacing or pocketing fabric; place the interfacing so that it extends past the top hem fold line into the pocket itself for approximately 1/2 inch ( 1.2 cm)

Step 5

Place the raw edge of the pocket seam allowance on to the chalked line, right sides together matching the top fold line of the pocket to the top chalk line; beginning with a back tack stitch down the first side using a 3/8 inch (1 cm) seam allowance and a stitch length of 3mm keeping the raw edge on the chalk line down to the first notch

ease the seam allowance in around the corner across to the next notch and across to the centre notch point. Continue stitching until you reach the top fold line on the opposite side of your pocket and back tack.

Step 6

Right sides together attach the lining to the bottom edge of the hem line, starting and ending with a back tack; press the seam allowance open

Step 7

Place one hand inside the pocket and catch hold of the bottom seam allowance, pull the pocket inside out; turn in the seam allowance on the lining and top hem and pin in place along the line of stitching matching the notch points; Slip stitch in place and turn the pocket back to the right side, press.

The pocket is now finished or you can add top stitching or pick stitching to the pocket.

Net-a -porter.com, J. Crew

patched chest pocket

Chanel Pre-Fall 2015
If you are working with a loosely woven fabric
the Inside out pocket is the best pocket to use.

Haider Ackermann Fall 2013
Think of adding a centre pleat and
pocket flap

Bellows Pocket

Haider Ackermann Fall 2013
Shown here with flaps, added zippers
and a centre pleat

The bellows pocket is a form of patch pocket inspired from military uniforms and men's shooting jackets. It is pleated down the side and bottom edges so that it can expand.

Step 1

Accuracy in making the pattern for this pocket is

really important. I'm showing it here with a 1 inch (2.5 cm) top hem but generally I will make the hem 2 inches (5 cm) because this pocket is not lined. There I have added a 1 inch (2.5) pleat and then cut out the bulk. The seam allowance down the sides and across the bottom is 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) which I also shaped to remove the bulk. Use a 1/4 inch (6 mm) seam allowance in the pleat angle.

Step 2

Cut the pocket out in fashion fabric and fuse fusible interfacing to the back of the top hem of the pocket.
With the right sides together fold the pleat angle in half and using a 2.5 mm stitch length and a 1/4 inch (6 mm) seam allowance stitch down to the point, turn and down to the 1/2 inch seam line, turn and stitch to the raw edge, beginning and ending with a back tack;

clip into the first turn and trim the fabric back at the second turn

Step 3

Turn the fabric to the right side and press in the pleats; Fold the seam allowance towards the back or inside of the pocket and press; attach the pocket to the garment by stitching close to folded edge down one side across the bottom and up the other side starting and finishing with a back tack

Here I have stitched the pleat down at the top hem fold line, while this works it looks bulky and messy so going back to the pattern you will see that I have removed the bulk from the pleat into the hem facing.

Finish by top stitching close to the fold of the top pleat to hold the pocket in place or leave un-stitched as Haider Ackermann's bellow pocket