The shirt

The shirt, part 1

Let’s start by looking at all the components that make up a classic dress shirt.  

image from, Alexander-West.com

Yoke: A shaped piece of fabric in a garment, fitted about or below the neck and shoulders, from which the rest of the garment hangs. It can be split in two, called the “split-yoke.” The yoke can also extend over the shoulder onto the shirt front. The yoke can also have a shoulder seam attaching the back yoke to a front yoke. The split yoke can also be cut on the bias.

Placket front: A standard shirt front with a placket sewn on top of the shirt front.

Plain front: A standard shirt front with a hidden placket; usually lapped left over right for men, and vice versa for women.

Fly front: A flap of material down one side of the front opening of a garment to conceal buttons or fasteners.

Armhole: The opening in a dress shirt, which the arms are sewn into.

Sleeve: The part of a garment that covers the arm and is usually cut wider than the cuffs. Can be pleated or gathered into the cuff.

Sleeve placket: A distinctive feature that is sewn on the sleeve; the opening of the sleeve fabric near the cuff. The placket can  have a button closure

Cuff: A fold or band serving as a trimming or finish for the bottom of a sleeve. Some cuff styles include French cuffs and barrel cuffs.

Back of dress shirt

image from, Alexander-West.com 

Back collar height: The part of the collar that is folded over (at the backside of the dress shirt).

Yoke: A shaped piece of fabric in a garment, fitted about or below the neck and shoulders, from which the rest of the garment hangs. It can be split in two, called the “split-yoke. A split yoke can be cut on the bias.

Hang loop: A piece of fabric sewn into the yoke seam that allows the shirt to be hung at this point.

Side pleats: Single fabric folds at the other parts of the shirt back.

Box pleat front: A double fabric fold, with the material folded under at each side at the back center of a shirt.

Sleeve: The part of a garment that covers the arm and is usually cut wider than the cuffs. The sleeve placket sits at the back of the sleeve.

Darts: A tapered seam of fabric for adjusting the fit of a garment.

Hem: The finished lower edge of the dress shirt body.

Tail: The part of a shirt below the waistline.

image from , Alexander-West.com  

The collar:

The part of a shirt that encompasses the neckline of the garment, often  as to fold or roll over. Comes in various shapes, depending on the face shape and occasion.

Collar stand:  The band of fabric sewn into the neckline of a dress shirt, which the collar attaches to. The height of the stand can alter.

Collar: The outside fabric of the collar, located at the front sides, which is folded over the collar stand.

Collar point length: The distance between the collar point and the top of the collar.

Collar front band: The area on the base that sits between the collar points.

Collar point spread: The distance between the collar points.

Hems

A hem is made when you fold the bottom raw edge to the wrong side or back of the garment, for 1 1/2 -2 inches, then stitch in place by hand or sewing machine. The fold line becomes the hemline. 

There are many different ways to hand stitch a hem.The easiest and most common hem stitches are the slip stitch and blind stitch. Both can be worked over a folded top edge, a serged raw edge, an edge finished with hem tape, ribbon or lace. Hand stitched hems give an almost invisible finish.

A machine stitched hem is fast and easy but while leave a visible line of stitching on the right side of the garment. A blind stitched hem will give you an almost invisible hem finish and can be stitched using any  sewing machine with a zig-zag or embroidery stitches.

 All these stitches are worked using a single length of thread. The old rule of thumb for the length of thread is from your fingers to your elbow. If you run your thread over wax it will help to stop the thread from forming small knots.

                                                              Slip stitched hem

This hand stitch has many uses. A slip stitch is also used to close a lining, create an invisible seam between to folded fabric edges,(closing a stuffed toy or cushion) a folded or flat hem edge and to attach an applique. 

Begin by threading your needle and making a small knot on one end of the thread, To make the knot, rap the thread around your index figure and roll the thread off your figure. Pull the thread to tighten the thread and form the knot.

Fold your hem up on the wrong of the fabric or garment and pin in place. Fold the raw edge of the hem under 1/4 inch and press to hold in place. With the wrong side of the fabric/garment facing, place the point of your needle behind the top folded edge of the hem; bring your needle to the right side of the hem so that the knot is hidden behind the hem.

Take a small stitch in the garment approximately 1/4 inch over from your first stitch

Bring the needle up though the folded top edge of the hem, approximately 1/4 inch  over from the last stitch, pull the needle and thread until the stitch tightens.

  Repeat along the hem .   Secure your stitches with a small knot.   






  To make the knot, take a small stitch into the hem only and pull the thread though until you have a small loop.  Pass the needle though the loop to form a second loop,      

Pass the needle though the second loop and pull the thread until a knot forms. Take a small stitch into the hem only, pull the thread though and cut the thread close to the fabric.  

You will have a tiny row of stitches just visible on the right side of the fabric/garment.     Remove pins and press the finished hem.    

                                                 Blind hem stitch.

 A blind hem stitch is almost visible on either side of your fabric/garment.

Fold your hem up on the wrong of the fabric or garment and pin in place. Fold the raw edge of the hem under 1/4 inch and press to hold in place. With the wrong side of the f

abric/garment facing, place the point of your needle behind the top folded edge of the hem; bring your needle to the right side of the hem on the fold line, so that the knot is hidden behind the hem. 

Take a small stitch into the fabric/garment, approximately 1/4 - 1/2 inch over take the needle back into the fold at the top of the hem. 

Run the needle in the fold of the fabric for about 1/4-1/2 inch before bring the needle back out of the hem.

Take another tiny stitch into the fabric just below where the needle came out of the folded top of the hem then back into the fold. Repeat along the hem. Secure the last stitch with a small knot. Remove pins and press the hem.

There will be a row of tiny 'V's' where the thread is coming out of the folded top edge of the hem picks up a thread on the fabric of the garment before going back into the fold.

                                                 

                                                        Catch stitch

A catch stitch has a criss crossing of the thread that adds strength. Catch stitch can be worked over a folded top of a hem or for heavy weight fabrics over the raw edge of the hem. Catch stitch also has a little bit of movement.

Bring the needle up to the right side of the hem approximately 1/4 inch down from the raw edge of the top of the hem, to hid the knot. 

Take a small back stitch into the fabric/garment approximately 1/2 inch over from your first stitch. 

Now take a back stitch in the hem approximately 1/2 inch over from the last stitch and 1/4 inch down from the top raw edge of the hem. Repeat along the hem to last stitch, secure with a small knot.

                                                            Figure 8 Stitch

This stitch is used when you are making a hem in a crepe fabric or a fabric with added stretch. Fold your hem up on the wrong of the fabric or garment and pin in place. Fold the raw edge of the hem under 1/4 inch and press to hold in place. With the wrong side of the fabric/garment facing, place the point of your needle behind the top folded edge of the hem; bring your needle to the right side of the hem so that the knot is hidden behind the hem.

Take a small back stitch in the fabric/garment straight across from the first beginning stitch.

Make a small back stitch back into the stitch in the hem. This forms a figure eight. 

Take the needle into the fold at the top of the hem and bring the needle back out on the front of the hem approximately 1 inch away from the first figure 8 stitch. Repeat along the hem. Secure the last stitch with a small knot.

finished figure 8 hem 

Machine stitched hem

Fold your hem up on the wrong of the fabric or garment and pin in place. Fold the raw edge of the hem under 1/4 inch and press to hold in place. With the wrong side of the fabric/garment facing and a stitch length of 2.5 - 3mm machine stitch close to the fold at the top edge of the hem. 

Machine blind stitched hem

Turn the hem up the decided width and pin in place. Fold the top raw edge of the hen under approximately 1/4 inch and press. 

Lay the hem flat on the machine table and fold the fabric/garment back onto itself so that you can see the wrong 
side of the hem .

Finished hem before
pressing

Using the blind stitch setting on your sewing machine  with the zig zag set at 2 -2.5 width, and stitch length 3mm, stitch along the top of the hem close to the fold so that the point of the zig zag stitch goes into the fold. Press the hem on both sides to flatten.

                          

    

 

All in one facings

Facings continued .......

Facing (sewing) In sewing and tailoring, facing is a small piece of fabric, separate or a part of the fabric itself, used to finish the fabric edges. Facing makes a garment look professionally finished with the seams well hidden inside the folds of the facing.

Facing (sewing) - Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Facing_(sewing)

If you are making a sleeveless garment the neck and armhole front and back facing can be cut all in one. By combining the all in one facing with the lining, will prevent the lining fabric from peeping out at the neck or armhole openings.

Start by making the facing pattern pieces. Place the front pattern piece onto paper and draw around the neckline, across the shoulder line and down the front armhole. Measure down the side seam approximately 2 1/2 inches and draw in.  Curve a line from the side seam across the front pattern piece that measures approximately 2 1/2 inches in length down from the neck line edge at the center front.












Step 1; 

Cut the front and back all in one facing out of your fashion fabric and attach fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric.

Wrong sides facing, pin together the garment shoulder seam. With a ½ inch seam allowance machine stitch across the shoulder securing both ends with a back tack. Repeat, machine stitch the shoulder seams together on the all in one facing. Press the seam allowances on both the facing and garment open and flat.

Step 2;

  Wrong sides together, pin the all in one facing around the neck of the garment being careful to match any notches and the shoulder seams. Using a 1/4 inch seam allowance machine stitch around the neck edge. Secure both ends of the stitching with a back tack.

Step 3;

Pin the facing around the armhole opening being careful to match any notches and the shoulder seams. Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance and a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm, machine stitch the facing to the garment armhole.Secure both ends of the stitching with a back tack.  

Step 4;

Clip in on the seam allowances around the neck line and trim at an angle the shoulder seam allowance. This will reduce bulk at the shoulder neck line. Repeat this step around around the armholes.

Step 5; 

Pull the back of the garment though to the front. All the seam allowances will now be hidden by the facing.

Press so that the garment neck and armhole edges are laying flat.

Step 6;

Turn the garment to the wrong side. Pin the side seams together being careful to match any notches and the seam line attaching the facing to the garment at the under arm with the seam allowance pressed towards the facing. Machine stitch the side seams together using a 2.5 -3 mm stitch length and securing both ends of the stitching with a back tack.

Press the side seam allowances open and flat. Edge stitch the seam allowance to the facing under the arm and across the front and back neck line.

The raw edge of the facing can be finished with serging or turned to the wrong side of the facing and edge stitched. 

 

Garment neck facing

Garment neck facing

Why add a neck facing?

— it is a way to finish a raw edge. The  facing is a pattern piece that is the same shape as the pattern piece it is being sewn to.  A dress, camisole or top whether it has a collar can benefit from the strength of a facing if the fabric is more structured. A garment lining can be attached to a neck facing.

Step 1;

Cut front and back neck facings out of your fashion fabric and attach fusible interfacing to the wrong side .

Wrong sides facing, pin together the garment shoulder seam. With a ½ inch seam allowance machine stitch across the shoulder securing both ends with a back tack. Repeat with the neck facings. Press the seam allowances open and flat.

Step 2;

  Wrong sides together, pin the neck facing around the neck of the garment being careful to match any notches.

Step 3;

With a ¼ inch seam allowance machine stitch around the neck facing. Here the back- neck facings are square; take the stitch length down to 1.5 – 2 mm as you stitch around the square curve, then take the stitch length back to 2.5 – 3 mm. Secure both ends of stitching with a back tack. 

 Step 4;

Clip in on the seam allowances around the neck line and trim at an angle the shoulder seam allowance. This will reduce bulk at the shoulder neck line

Step 5;

Press the seam allowance towards the neck facing. With the right side of the fabric facing up and using the foot of the machine set on the seam line as shown edge stitch around the neck seam line.

Step 6;

Press the neck facing to the back of the garment to finis

Understitching or edge stitching is simply stitching a line close to the edge of a facing to keep it from rolling toward the outside. It comes in especially handy when sewing around a neckline. It keeps the facing, or lining, firmly on the inside of your garment without any stitches showing on the outside.Apr 11, 2011

How To Understitch | Colette Blog

https://blog.colettehq.com/tutorials/tutorial-understitching