Tuesday, October 9, 2018

All in one facings

Facings continued .......

Facing (sewing) In sewing and tailoring, facing is a small piece of fabric, separate or a part of the fabric itself, used to finish the fabric edges. Facing makes a garment look professionally finished with the seams well hidden inside the folds of the facing.

If you are making a sleeveless garment the neck and armhole front and back facing can be cut all in one. By combining the all in one facing with the lining, will prevent the lining fabric from peeping out at the neck or armhole openings.

Start by making the facing pattern pieces. Place the front pattern piece onto paper and draw around the neckline, across the shoulder line and down the front armhole. Measure down the side seam approximately 2 1/2 inches and draw in.  Curve a line from the side seam across the front pattern piece that measures approximately 2 1/2 inches in length down from the neck line edge at the center front.












Step 1; 

Cut the front and back all in one facing out of your fashion fabric and attach fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric.

Wrong sides facing, pin together the garment shoulder seam. With a ½ inch seam allowance machine stitch across the shoulder securing both ends with a back tack. Repeat, machine stitch the shoulder seams together on the all in one facing. Press the seam allowances on both the facing and garment open and flat.

Step 2;

  Wrong sides together, pin the all in one facing around the neck of the garment being careful to match any notches and the shoulder seams. Using a 1/4 inch seam allowance machine stitch around the neck edge. Secure both ends of the stitching with a back tack.
















Step 3;

Pin the facing around the armhole opening being careful to match any notches and the shoulder seams. Using a 1/2 inch seam allowance and a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm, machine stitch the facing to the garment armhole.Secure both ends of the stitching with a back tack.  



Step 4;

Clip in on the seam allowances around the neck line and trim at an angle the shoulder seam allowance. This will reduce bulk at the shoulder neck line. Repeat this step around around the armholes.



Step 5; 

Pull the back of the garment though to the front. All the seam allowances will now be hidden by the facing.
Press so that the garment neck and armhole edges are laying flat.


















Step 6;

Turn the garment to the wrong side. Pin the side seams together being careful to match any notches and the seam line attaching the facing to the garment at the under arm with the seam allowance pressed towards the facing. Machine stitch the side seams together using a 2.5 -3 mm stitch length and securing both ends of the stitching with a back tack.
Press the side seam allowances open and flat. Edge stitch the seam allowance to the facing under the arm and across the front and back neck line.


















The raw edge of the facing can be finished with serging or turned to the wrong side of the facing and edge stitched. 










 











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