The shirt

The shirt, part 1

Let’s start by looking at all the components that make up a classic dress shirt.  

image from, Alexander-West.com

Yoke: A shaped piece of fabric in a garment, fitted about or below the neck and shoulders, from which the rest of the garment hangs. It can be split in two, called the “split-yoke.” The yoke can also extend over the shoulder onto the shirt front. The yoke can also have a shoulder seam attaching the back yoke to a front yoke. The split yoke can also be cut on the bias.

Placket front: A standard shirt front with a placket sewn on top of the shirt front.

Plain front: A standard shirt front with a hidden placket; usually lapped left over right for men, and vice versa for women.

Fly front: A flap of material down one side of the front opening of a garment to conceal buttons or fasteners.

Armhole: The opening in a dress shirt, which the arms are sewn into.

Sleeve: The part of a garment that covers the arm and is usually cut wider than the cuffs. Can be pleated or gathered into the cuff.

Sleeve placket: A distinctive feature that is sewn on the sleeve; the opening of the sleeve fabric near the cuff. The placket can  have a button closure

Cuff: A fold or band serving as a trimming or finish for the bottom of a sleeve. Some cuff styles include French cuffs and barrel cuffs.

Back of dress shirt

image from, Alexander-West.com 

Back collar height: The part of the collar that is folded over (at the backside of the dress shirt).

Yoke: A shaped piece of fabric in a garment, fitted about or below the neck and shoulders, from which the rest of the garment hangs. It can be split in two, called the “split-yoke. A split yoke can be cut on the bias.

Hang loop: A piece of fabric sewn into the yoke seam that allows the shirt to be hung at this point.

Side pleats: Single fabric folds at the other parts of the shirt back.

Box pleat front: A double fabric fold, with the material folded under at each side at the back center of a shirt.

Sleeve: The part of a garment that covers the arm and is usually cut wider than the cuffs. The sleeve placket sits at the back of the sleeve.

Darts: A tapered seam of fabric for adjusting the fit of a garment.

Hem: The finished lower edge of the dress shirt body.

Tail: The part of a shirt below the waistline.

image from , Alexander-West.com  

The collar:

The part of a shirt that encompasses the neckline of the garment, often  as to fold or roll over. Comes in various shapes, depending on the face shape and occasion.

Collar stand:  The band of fabric sewn into the neckline of a dress shirt, which the collar attaches to. The height of the stand can alter.

Collar: The outside fabric of the collar, located at the front sides, which is folded over the collar stand.

Collar point length: The distance between the collar point and the top of the collar.

Collar front band: The area on the base that sits between the collar points.

Collar point spread: The distance between the collar points.