The front fly with back guard

The front fly should sit smooth and flat.

You are going to need a guard and front facing. These can be drafted from the front pattern piece. Cut 2 pieces for the guard out of the fashion fabric and 1 facing piece on the bias from lining or other light weight fabric . Make a notch at the finished length for the zipper placement on the garment fronts, guard and facing..

  Step one is to make the front guard. Right sides together,  machine stitch along the outer edge of the
  front guard. Press the seam open and turn to the right side so that the seam is enclosed, press,  and top stitch close the the edge.

Finished guard

 Serge or machine neaten the outer edge of the facing.

  

Front facing attached

  Pin the facing to either the left or right side of the garment front, right sides together down to the notch point. If you are using a 1/2 inch seam allowance attach the facing to the front with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.  Machine stitch down to the notch.





 Press the seam allowance open and flat before

the front facing seam allowance ready to be pressed open
and flat before been folded to the back.

folding the facing to the back, press.




 

Attaching the under side of the zipper
stitching close to the fold line. Here you can
see the pressed seam allowance line

On the other side of the garment fly opening press the seam allowance to the wrong side down to the notch point. Fold the seam allowance in half and press. You will now have two pressed lines. Pin one side of the zipper right side up to the first fold line. The bottom of the zipper will sit on the notch point. Machine stitch in place close to the edge of the fold line finishing at the notch point, being sure to secure both ends of the stitching.

front fly pinned onto the stitching line

Bring the faced side of the fly opening over the closed zipper to the pressed fold line so that the finished fly edge is sitting on the fold line; pin the faced fly edge to the zipper tape.

Attaching the zipper to the facing

 

Flip the garment back over the pined edge so that the fly facing and unattached side of the zipper tape are showing. Turn to wrong side, pin the zipper tape to the facing and stitch down the zipper tape.

.

stitching the crotch together up to
 the base of the zipper

Pin and stitch the crotch line of the garment up to the bottom end of the zipper. Clip the seam

allowance at the notch point so that the crotch seam will press open and flat.

attaching the guard

Place the guard under the zipper matching the notch point and pin in place. Machine stitch down the zipper using the second fold line as a guide, secure both ends of the stitching.

 

finished front fly stitching

 Fold the guard back out of the way. Place a pin at the base of the zipper to mark. For the last stitching line, chalk a line 1 1/4 inches over  from the center front seam so that it curves in to the crotch line approximately 1 inch below the pin marking the zipper base. Machine stitch down the chalk line securing both ends of the stitching.

Wrong side of finished fly showing
the attached guard

Place the guard flat under the zipper and machine stitch across the base of the zipper down the crotch seam and up along the curve matching the stitches, secure stitching.