Decorative reversible slot seams

Reversible slot seams

The decorative slot seams can add so much interest to a garment. The slot seam becomes reversible when the under strip is bound onto the seam allowances. Choose a contrast color, stripe or print even a metallic fabric for the slot so long as it has no right or wrong side. Think also of using contrast thread or threads. The reversible slot seam can add so much interest to a simple shift dress, skirt and even think of adding to the side seams of pants. This will give a beautiful couture finish to the inside of an unlined garment.

Step 1

Cut all the seam allowances down to 3/8 inch (1 cm).  Fuse a strip of 3/8 inch (1 cm) wide fusible interfacing down to what will be the under side of the seam allowance With matching sides of the fabric together machine baste or set the stitch length to 4, stitch down the seam line. Do not secure the ends of the stitching. Press the seam allowances flat and open.

Step 2

Cut a length of fabric 1 1/4 inch (3 cm) wide and the length of the seam for the slot. The fabric for the slot has to be reversible meaning that there is not right or wrong side. This can be cut straight of grain or on the bias if the seam is curved. Press the slot fabric in half or draw a chalk line down the center of the slot.  Pin the slot down the stitching line of the garment so that the press or chalk line is on the stitch line. 

 Step 3

Fold the ¼ inch (6 mm) seam allowance of the slot to the back of the seam allowance of the garment.

 Press in place. The fold line of the slot will sit along the raw edge of the garment seam allowance.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       








  Step 4   
  With the seam allowance laying flat, pin down
the edge of the slot. Repeat on the other side. 

Step 5


 Machine stitch down the folded edge of the slot with a stitch length of 2.5-3 mm, securing both ends of the stitching. The stitching has to be at least 1/8 inch back from the folded edge of the strip. If your garment fashion fabric is loosely woven, or fabric that frays, stitch a second row of stitching in from the first row to strengthen the seam. Repeat down the other side of the slot. 

Step 6

Turn the garment over and remove the baste stitches from the seam line, press the seam on both sides.