Side front pocket for jeans, skirts, trousers, shorts, etc.

If your garment has side seams you can add these pockets. The back pocket bag for this pocket is going to attach into the front fly. When you do this the pocket will always sit flat behind the garment.

Step one is to draft and cut your four pocket pattern pieces. Using your trouser front pattern draw the shape of your pocket. Trace this onto paper  and mark in the two facing pieces.

pocket bag pattern pieces

pocket facing pattern pieces

Cut both the front and back pocket bags in muslin or other pocketing. Cut the front and back facings in the fashion fabric.

To make the pocket.

Front facing attached to front pocket bag

Press the seam allowance under on the back edge and bottom edge of the front facing. Attach the front facing to the front pocket bag stitching close to the folded edge.

back facing that includes the side hip attached to the back pocket bag

Repeat on the back pocket bag   

attaching the front pocket bag to the pocket opening on the garment

    Place the front pocket bag onto the garment with right sides           together. Pin in place.

machine stitching down the taped pocket opening 

 Place a 1/4 inch (6mm) wide cotton tape down the sewing line. This will stop the pocket opening from stretching. You can also use fusible interfacing.

Machine stitch down the front pocket opening to the lower notch point marking the end of the pocket.  Make sure that one side of the tape is in the stitching.

Pressing the seam

Press the pocket bag away from the garment with the seam allow facing in towards the garment.

Fold the pocket bag back so that it is sitting behind the garment, press.

Clip though to the stitching at the lower notch so that the top of the seam allowance is sitting flat.

Top stitching the pocket edge and pressing 

 Top stitch close to the pocket opening edge and stitch a second row of top stitching if you wish.

stitching the pocket bags together to make the pocket

 Place the front pocket onto the back pocket bag matching all the notches. Pin in place.
Machine stitch the edge of the front pocket bag to the back pocket bag.

the back of the finished pocket

Finish the lower edge of the pocket bag with serging or as shown with a Hong Kong seam finish

Finished pocket

Think of all the different design possibilities. The shape of the pocket opening can be square, curved or follow the shape of the side seam. Think of adding a tab and button to the opening.