Decorative reversible slot seams

Reversible slot seams

The decorative slot seams can add so much interest to a garment. The slot seam becomes reversible when the under strip is bound onto the seam allowances. Choose a contrast color, stripe or print even a metallic fabric for the slot so long as it has no right or wrong side. Think also of using contrast thread or threads. The reversible slot seam can add so much interest to a simple shift dress, skirt and even think of adding to the side seams of pants. This will give a beautiful couture finish to the inside of an unlined garment.

Step 1

Cut all the seam allowances down to 3/8 inch (1 cm).  Fuse a strip of 3/8 inch (1 cm) wide fusible interfacing down to what will be the under side of the seam allowance With matching sides of the fabric together machine baste or set the stitch length to 4, stitch down the seam line. Do not secure the ends of the stitching. Press the seam allowances flat and open.

Step 2

Cut a length of fabric 1 1/4 inch (3 cm) wide and the length of the seam for the slot. The fabric for the slot has to be reversible meaning that there is not right or wrong side. This can be cut straight of grain or on the bias if the seam is curved. Press the slot fabric in half or draw a chalk line down the center of the slot.  Pin the slot down the stitching line of the garment so that the press or chalk line is on the stitch line. 

 Step 3

Fold the ¼ inch (6 mm) seam allowance of the slot to the back of the seam allowance of the garment.

 Press in place. The fold line of the slot will sit along the raw edge of the garment seam allowance.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       








  Step 4   
  With the seam allowance laying flat, pin down
the edge of the slot. Repeat on the other side. 

Step 5


 Machine stitch down the folded edge of the slot with a stitch length of 2.5-3 mm, securing both ends of the stitching. The stitching has to be at least 1/8 inch back from the folded edge of the strip. If your garment fashion fabric is loosely woven, or fabric that frays, stitch a second row of stitching in from the first row to strengthen the seam. Repeat down the other side of the slot. 

Step 6

Turn the garment over and remove the baste stitches from the seam line, press the seam on both sides.

The front fly with back guard

The front fly should sit smooth and flat.

You are going to need a guard and front facing. These can be drafted from the front pattern piece. Cut 2 pieces for the guard out of the fashion fabric and 1 facing piece on the bias from lining or other light weight fabric . Make a notch at the finished length for the zipper placement on the garment fronts, guard and facing..

  Step one is to make the front guard. Right sides together,  machine stitch along the outer edge of the
  front guard. Press the seam open and turn to the right side so that the seam is enclosed, press,  and top stitch close the the edge.

Finished guard

 Serge or machine neaten the outer edge of the facing.

  

Front facing attached

  Pin the facing to either the left or right side of the garment front, right sides together down to the notch point. If you are using a 1/2 inch seam allowance attach the facing to the front with a 3/8 inch seam allowance.  Machine stitch down to the notch.





 Press the seam allowance open and flat before

the front facing seam allowance ready to be pressed open
and flat before been folded to the back.

folding the facing to the back, press.




 

Attaching the under side of the zipper
stitching close to the fold line. Here you can
see the pressed seam allowance line

On the other side of the garment fly opening press the seam allowance to the wrong side down to the notch point. Fold the seam allowance in half and press. You will now have two pressed lines. Pin one side of the zipper right side up to the first fold line. The bottom of the zipper will sit on the notch point. Machine stitch in place close to the edge of the fold line finishing at the notch point, being sure to secure both ends of the stitching.

front fly pinned onto the stitching line

Bring the faced side of the fly opening over the closed zipper to the pressed fold line so that the finished fly edge is sitting on the fold line; pin the faced fly edge to the zipper tape.

Attaching the zipper to the facing

 

Flip the garment back over the pined edge so that the fly facing and unattached side of the zipper tape are showing. Turn to wrong side, pin the zipper tape to the facing and stitch down the zipper tape.

.

stitching the crotch together up to
 the base of the zipper

Pin and stitch the crotch line of the garment up to the bottom end of the zipper. Clip the seam

allowance at the notch point so that the crotch seam will press open and flat.

attaching the guard

Place the guard under the zipper matching the notch point and pin in place. Machine stitch down the zipper using the second fold line as a guide, secure both ends of the stitching.

 

finished front fly stitching

 Fold the guard back out of the way. Place a pin at the base of the zipper to mark. For the last stitching line, chalk a line 1 1/4 inches over  from the center front seam so that it curves in to the crotch line approximately 1 inch below the pin marking the zipper base. Machine stitch down the chalk line securing both ends of the stitching.

Wrong side of finished fly showing
the attached guard

Place the guard flat under the zipper and machine stitch across the base of the zipper down the crotch seam and up along the curve matching the stitches, secure stitching.

Side front pocket for jeans, skirts, trousers, shorts, etc.

If your garment has side seams you can add these pockets. The back pocket bag for this pocket is going to attach into the front fly. When you do this the pocket will always sit flat behind the garment.

Step one is to draft and cut your four pocket pattern pieces. Using your trouser front pattern draw the shape of your pocket. Trace this onto paper  and mark in the two facing pieces.

pocket bag pattern pieces

pocket facing pattern pieces

Cut both the front and back pocket bags in muslin or other pocketing. Cut the front and back facings in the fashion fabric.

To make the pocket.

Front facing attached to front pocket bag

Press the seam allowance under on the back edge and bottom edge of the front facing. Attach the front facing to the front pocket bag stitching close to the folded edge.

back facing that includes the side hip attached to the back pocket bag

Repeat on the back pocket bag   

attaching the front pocket bag to the pocket opening on the garment

    Place the front pocket bag onto the garment with right sides           together. Pin in place.

machine stitching down the taped pocket opening 

 Place a 1/4 inch (6mm) wide cotton tape down the sewing line. This will stop the pocket opening from stretching. You can also use fusible interfacing.

Machine stitch down the front pocket opening to the lower notch point marking the end of the pocket.  Make sure that one side of the tape is in the stitching.

Pressing the seam

Press the pocket bag away from the garment with the seam allow facing in towards the garment.

Fold the pocket bag back so that it is sitting behind the garment, press.

Clip though to the stitching at the lower notch so that the top of the seam allowance is sitting flat.

Top stitching the pocket edge and pressing 

 Top stitch close to the pocket opening edge and stitch a second row of top stitching if you wish.

stitching the pocket bags together to make the pocket

 Place the front pocket onto the back pocket bag matching all the notches. Pin in place.
Machine stitch the edge of the front pocket bag to the back pocket bag.

the back of the finished pocket

Finish the lower edge of the pocket bag with serging or as shown with a Hong Kong seam finish

Finished pocket

Think of all the different design possibilities. The shape of the pocket opening can be square, curved or follow the shape of the side seam. Think of adding a tab and button to the opening.

Hong Kong seam finish

 
A Hong Kong seam finish is a quick and easy way to encase with a binding, the raw edge of a seam allowance. The  binding used to make the Hong Kong seam finish can be a bias strip of lightweight lining fabric, but you can use any light weight fabric. Have some fun with this and use a contrasting color, stripe or floral.


To make the binding, cut the bias strip of fabric  1.75cm [3/4 inch] wide. The easiest way to find the bias is to use a set square.

What is the bias and how do you find it?













Pin the binding right side to right side along the top of the seam allowance and machine stitch 1cm [1/4 inch] in from the raw edge. Place the seam allowance under the presser foot so that the side of the foot and raw edge of the seam allowance match,  secure with a back tack, stitch down the edge finishing with a back tack.

showing both the right and wrong side of the seam allowance
 that the binding has been attached t

 Press the binding out over the edge of the seam allowance.

stitching in the ditch

 Fold the binding over the raw edge of the seam allowance to the back of the seam allowance. Press and pin the binding in place.

wrong side 

right side 

 Machine stitch down the edge of the fabric seam allowance close to the binding or in the ditch.Secure both ends of the stitching with a back tack.












                                                                                                     
 Press your Hong Kong seam bound allowances open and flat.

Hong Kong bound seam finish