Tailoring 101, The front facing

Tailoring 101,

 The front-facing

    The front facing is attached to the front edge of the jacket with machine stitching from the notch point to the front hem. The front facing can be cut from a contrast fabric such as velvet, satin, leather or a different fabric weave or pattern. 

If you are working with a stripe or check pattern, the front facing will have to be shaped to keep the pattern or stripe running straight. You can also join the front facing at the waistline. 

Shaping the fabric for the front facing

 Most lapels have a slightly curved shape. The front facing will copy the shape of the lapel.   Fabrics with a vertical stripe, such as checks, houndstooth, stripes, plaids, etc., are going to follow the shape of the front edge of the facing. Iron the fabric so the vertical stripe follows the curved shape of the lapel. Cut a piece of fabric 2 -3 inches (5 - 7.5 cm) longer and wider than the front facing pattern. Place the fabric on a flat ironing surface. Make a mark at the waistline. From the waistline up ,stretch along the outer edge while shrinking the inner edge of the facing fabric, until the vertical stripe follows the curve of the front facing or lapel. Leave to dry.

Stretch and shape the front edge and
shrink the inner edge

                             

The stripe will follow the
shape of the facing

Pin the front facing pattern onto the shaped fabric with the dominant vertical stripe along the outer edge. 

Add to the front facing

Measure out 1/4 inch (5mm) along the raw front edge of the facing from the top notch to the break point and mark with a chalk line. The jacket may have a curved or squared front bottom edge. Add 1/4 inch (5mm) to the bottom curve, from 3 inches (7.5 cm) above the squared front edge to the bottom edge of the facing.

    

With right sides together, pin the facing to the raw front edge of the jacket. Evenly distribute the ease as you pin from the top collar notch point. Make sure the facing matches the jacket front waistline. With a stitch length of 2.5-3mm, machine stitch from the top notch point to the inner hem seam allowance. Secure both edges of the stitching with a back tack. Press the seam allowance open.

Trim back to 1/4 inch (5mm) or less
if the fabric doesn't fray.

 Place the jacket on a table with the wrong side of the jacket front facing you. Trim back the upper seam allowance along the from edge. You do this to remove bulk at the front edge of the jacket.

Using your fingers, roll the under-seam allowance over the trimmed upper seam allowance, then whipstitch it to the taped edge around the collar and down to the break point. From the break point down the jacket front, pull the seam allowance tightly onto the front tape. Roll the seam allowance again around the curved bottom hem or squared front hem. 

Turn the facing through to the right side. The facing should be rolling over the front edge of the lapel above the break line, as with the hem and the jacket front rolling back onto the facing down the jacket front. With the right side of the jacket facing you, baste stitch around the front edge of the jacket.  

The front edge of the jacket can be pick stitched, machine topstitched, piped, or finished with trim. 

The front facing can also have a contrast inset. This is attached after the front facing is shaped.

 Cut the lapel pattern in half at the waistline. This lets you have the lapel above the waistline in a contrast fabric such as brocade, pile, leather, or color, then use the jacket fabric in the facing below the waistline.

You can also use this method when working with a fabric you can't shape. This is a great way to add a buttonhole at the waistline.