Tailoring 101, The front facing

Tailoring 101, The front facing

 The front facing

 'La Concierge Est Dans L'Escalier' blazer from Jean Paul Gaultier
Vintage, featuring notched lapels, a contrasting black trim. Circa 1988. 

    The front facing is attached to the front edge of the jacket with machine stitching from the notch      point to the front hem. The front facing can be cut from a contrast fabric such as velvet, satin, leather or a different fabric weave or pattern. 

If you are working with a stripe or check pattern the front facing will have to be shaped to keep the pattern or stripe running straight. The front facing can also be joined at the waistline. 

Shaping the fabric for the front facing

 Most lapels have a slightly curved shape. The front facing is going to copy the shape of the lapel.   Fabrics with a vertical stripe such as checks, houndstooth, stripes, plaids, etc. are going to follow the shape of the front edge of the facing. The fabric will have to be shaped with an iron so that the vertical stripe in the pattern is following the curved shape of the lapel. Cut a piece of fabric 2 -3  inches (5 - 7.5 cm) longer and wider than the front facing pattern. Place the fabric on a flat ironing surface. Make a mark at the waist line. From the waist line up ,stretch along the outer edge while shrinking the inner edge of the facing fabric, until the vertical stripe follows the curve of the front facing or lapel. Leave to dry.

Stretch and shape the front edge and
shrink the inner edge

                             

Vivienne Westwood Loulou jacket
 'No Man's Land'  SS2020
The white stripe in this tartan is the
dominate stripe .

The stripe will follow the
shape of the facing

Pin the front facing pattern onto the shaped fabric with the dominate vertical stripe along the outer edge. 

Add to the front facing

Measure out 1/4 inch (5mm) along the raw front edge of the facing from the top notch to the break point and mark with a chalk line. The jacket may have a curved or squared front bottom edge. Add 1/4 inch (5mm) to the bottom curve and from 3 inches (7.5 cm) above the squared front edge and the bottom edge of the facing.

    

With right sides together pin the facing to the raw front edge of the jacket. Evenly distribute the ease as you pin from the top collar notch point. Make sure the facing matches the waist line of the jacket front. With a stitch length of 2.5-3mm, machine stitch from the top notch point to the inner hem seam allowance. Secure both edges of the stitching with a back tack. Press the seam allowance open.

Trim back to 1/4 inch (5mm) or less
if the fabric doesn't fray.

 Place the jacket on a table with the wrong side of the jacket front facing you. Trim back the upper seam allowance along the from edge. You do this to remove bulk at the front edge of the jacket.

Using your fingers roll the under seam allowance over the trimmed upper seam allowance and with needle and thread whip stitch tit to the taped edge  around the collar and down to the break point. From the break point down the jacket front pull the seam allowance tightly onto the front tape. roll the seam allowance again around the curved bottom hem or squared front hem. 

Turn the facing though to the right side. The facing should be rolling over the front edge of the lapel above the break line, as with the hem and the jacket front rolling back onto the facing down the jacket front. With the right side of the jacket facing you, baste stitch around the front edge of the jacket.  

The front edge of the jacket could be pick stitched, machine top stitched , piped or finished with a trim. 

The front facing can also have a contrast inset. This is attached after the front facing is shaped.

Alessandro Michele's stylistic
signature took Gucci 's retro
cool aesthetic into modern new realms for AW16 

 Cut the lapel pattern in half at the waistline. This allows you to have the lapel above the waist line in a contrast fabric such as a brocade, pile, leather or color, then use the jacket fabric in the facing below the waist line.

Also you can use this method when working with a fabric that you can't shape. This is a great way of adding a buttonhole on the waist line.

The toile fitting

Tailoring 101  Week 4

The toile fitting

For this fitting you are  looking for problems in the fit of the pattern. The muslin toile should have the centre front marked with the button placements. I find it helps to mark  the chest or bust line,the centre and bicep lines on the toile.
Most of the fitting problems apply to both women's and menswear.
 Be critical study the jacket/coat toile for creasing and wrinkles. Evaluate the proportion and balance of the jacket/coat on the body.

Have trust in your judgment!
 Pin the shoulder pads onto the shoulder seam before the client puts on the jacket.
Begin by pining the jacket accurately in place down the centre front line at the button placement marks.Now stand back and study the jacket for fit problems.

shoulders back or stooped shoulders

 full bust or sway back

When fitting a jacket it is important that your client is relaxed and standing naturally with their arms at their side. How they stand is going to be key to fit problems.










The front

Is the centre front of the jacket hanging straight with no pull lines from the break line down to the hem line?
  If the jacket front is opening and pulling towards the side from the lower pined button placement the hip line of the jacket is to small

or

Is there to much fabric at the hem line






Look at the chest line is it sitting as a straight line around the body? Is it sitting in the right place passing across the bust point in the front or sitting above or below?
If the line is pulling up you will have to lengthen the shoulder-bust point length. If it is drooping down make a  a tuck across the front on the chest line

Is the waistline sitting on the waistline?

 Cut across the waist line to the side seam and add fabric to adjust the fit if the waistline is sitting to high or make a tuck across the front to the side seam to adjust the fit if the waistline is sitting to low
        







Is the jacket pulling across the bust line coursing the lapel to gap ?
Cut the seam apart over the bust line and add fabric at the side of the bust area; This amount will be divided and the pattern adjusted.



If you have front darts check that the top point of the dart finishes 1 inch ( 2.5 cm) below the bust point.










Is there pulling across the bust/chest line?  Adjust the front darts and add to side seam; you may have to adjust the lapel and armhole


If you have a princess line jacket adjust the side front panel at the bust point and side seam down to the waist; for a full bust you may also have to lengthen the should to bust point





Are the shoulders to long or to short? Take a tuck or tucks along the shoulder line to adjust the length if the shoulder is to long. Measure out or pin fabric to the armhole to lengthen the shoulder






Is the shoulder line sitting to far forward or back?
Try adjusting the shoulder pad by moving slightly forward or back.
If the shoulder is pulling back the length from neck -waist in the jacket back is to short adjust this length; if the shoulder is pulling forward cut the shoulder open and add fabric to the front shoulder; re pin the front to the back shoulder adjusting the extra fabric until the shoulder is sitting in the correct position

Back
 It will pull up in the centre back if the neck -waist length is to short, adjust the length by cutting across the shoulder line and adding fabric
                or

A stooped posture will make the jacket pull upwards and stick out at the back hem line; make a tuck starting in the side panel across the centre back finishing in the other side panel; adjust the size and length of the tuck until the jacket back is sitting correctly








The back vent is pulling open - to narrow across the hip line, let out to adjust fit











Sagging or diagonal creases down one or both sides of the jacket  - pin the fabric across the back shoulder line until the creasing or sagging disappears; the adjustment will be made on the pattern at the jacket side not at the shoulder as this would alter the depth of the back armhole





Wrinkling and creases in the back armhole - increase the size of the shoulder pad first to see if this eliminates the problem if not  cut open the shoulder line at the neck edge and add fabric to the back shoulder across to the shoulder centre and across the to centre back to increase the height of the back neck line until the creasing disappears.


Wrinkles at the back neckline means the neckline needs to be lowered, adjust on the pattern




Or
 if the back neck line is to low adjust the pattern by raising the centre back neck line



Sleeve

Is the sleeve sitting to low in the underarm? When the arm is raised does the entire side of the jacket raise up? You will have to adjust the depth of the armhole





It is better to have a sleeve sitting high in the armhole but make sure this is not restricting movement. If movement is being restricted the armhole will have to be lowered.


Is there wrinkles coming from the underarm area in the sleeve front when the arm is resting at the side. Remove a little fabric at the front notch point until the wrinkles disappear





Is there pulling and creasing across the sleeve head?
Re set the sleeve so that it falls a little back or forward
until the creases disappear. Re mark the notch points on the sleeve
and jacket and transfer to the pattern








 The sleeve head is to narrow if there are pull lines forming. Cut down the centre of the sleeve head to the bicep line and add fabric until the 'pulling' disappears.

Check that the sleeve is not twisting - this is because the sleeve was not cut following the grain of the fabric.

Check the sleeve length - the sleeve length is a matter of personal preference

 Make all adjustments to the pattern before cutting out the fashion fabric.

Next week will be starting to work the jacket/coat fronts. For this you will need all the interfacing's such as a natural hair canvas, or a balanced hymo canvas, pocketing or silecia fabric, chest piece  or domette, 1/4 inch tape and fusible weft interfacing if using.

The shirt - part 2, construction

The classic shirt has now become an essential part of every wardrobe. It can be shaped to the body, over sized, tunic length or worn as a dress. It may have multiple pockets, pocket flaps, zippers, one or two piece collar, different collar shapes, top stitching, different sleeve lengths, etc. The shirt can also be made in multiple fabric choices from the sheerest silk to heavy denim. The shirt can be made in both woven and knit fabrics. As well as the classic plain white cotton shirt, floral prints, stripes, checks and poker dots in every color and combination of contrast colors and patterns can be used.
The first step is finding the pattern and fashion fabric. This can be a commercial pattern or one you draft yourself.

Construction steps:
Step 1:
The classic shirt has a pleat at the center back. This can be made as an inverted or box pleat. It can also have a loop over the pleat. Begin by making the pleat following the markings on the pattern. Pin the pleat in place and bast stitch across the top of the pleat to hold the folds of the pleat in place.



Step 2:


 Attach the back yoke to the shirt back. Right sides together pin one of the back yoke pieces to the back, matching the notch points. Turn the back over and with the right side of the yoke facing onto the wrong side of the back, pin the yoke in place matching the notch points. The shirt back will be sandwiched between the two yoke pieces.
Machine stitch across the yoke seam line using a stitch length of 2.5 - 3 mm. Secure both ends of the stitching with a back tack.

       

Step 3:
                                                                               
Press the yokes flat making sure that they are folding over the stitching. With a stitch length of 4 -4.5 mm, machine top stitch across the yoke. To do this you can use the inside edge of the foot on the fold line. This will give you a top stitching line that is close to the fold line.

Using the foot again, place the inside edge on the top stitching line and stitch a second row of top stitch across the yoke. If you want a wider width between the two rows of top stitching use the outside edge of the foot.




Step 4:

Attach the back yoke to the wrong side of the front. Pin in place before machine stitching across the yoke using a stitch length of 2.5 - 3 mm.
Secure both ends with a back tack.
Press the seam allowance flat and onto the yoke.

Press the seam allowance on the top yoke to the wrong side. Pin the yoke to the front so that the fold line is just sitting over the row of stitching attaching the back yoke to the front. Pin in place. Machine top stitching across the yoke keeping the stitching close to the fold line. Top stitch a second row of top stitching across the
                                         front yoke. Press.
                                         Repeat on the other front.


Step 5:

The left front button stand.

With the wrong side of the shirt up right, fold the front edge over 1/4 inch (6 mm) and press.

 Fold the button stand along the fold line as marked on the pattern, press and pin in place. Machine stitch down the stand with a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm. Secure both ends with a back tack.
If you are using a light weight or very soft fabric, fuse interfacing onto the wrong side of the shirt button stand.





The right front button stand.

Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the right button stand. Pin the right side of the button stand to the wrong side of the right shirt front.
 Machine stitch down the seam line using a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm.
Secure both ends with a back tack.
Press the seam allowance open and flat before folding the button stand over onto the shirt front. Pin the button stand to hold in place.

Top stitch down the both fold lines of the button stand with a stitch length of 4 -4.5 mm. Make a second row of top stitching down the button stand if wished.

        

step 6:

The collar.

Reduce the seam allowance around the collar pieces to 1/4 inch (6 mm). Fusing interfacing to the wrong side of the under collar unless you want a very soft collar.

 Right sides together, pin the two collar pieces together along the outside collar edge. Machine stitch around the collar using a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm and securing both ends of the stitching with a back tack. Be careful to keep the stitching straight. If you have a rounded collar reduce the stitch length around the curve to 1.5 -2 mm. This will give you a better curve line.
If the collar has pointed fronts, keep the needle down when you turn the corner and reduce the stitch length to 1.5 -2 mm. This will help to give you a stronger, actuate front point.


Cut the extra fabric from the collar point.

Turn the collar to the right side. If you press the seam allowance open and flat where you can the collar will fold along the stitching line. Press the collar flat.

Step 7 The collar stand.

Reduce the seam allowance on the collar stand pieces to 1/4 inch (6 mm). Fuse interfacing to the collar stand piece on the wrong side that is going to be sitting on the inside or wrong side of the shirt.
Right sides together pin the fused collar stand piece to the right side of the collar, matching the notch points. Turn the collar over and with right sides together, pin the other collar stand to the collar, matching  the notch points. The collar will now be sandwiched between the collar stand pieces.
Set the sewing machine to begin stitching the seam allowance in from the collar stands neck edge. Machine stitch along the seam line using a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm finishing at the collar neck edge. Secure both ends with a back tack. Turn the collar stand to the right side and press flat.

More images coming

Press the collar. Turn up the seam allowance on the front side of the band and press. The collar is now ready to attach to the shirt body.
Step 8 Attaching the collar
Right sides together and starting at the center back, pin the back of the collar band onto the wrong side of the shirt around the neckline, matching all notches and should points.
Using a stitch length of 2.5 mm machine stitch around the neckline to attach the collar. Securing both ends of the stitching with a back tack.
Press the seam allowance up into the collar band.
Turn the shirt over and pin the folded edge of the front collar band to the neckline so that the folded edge is sitting on the row of stitching. Attach the front band to the neckline with machine stitching, using a 2.5mm stitch length stitch around the neckline. About one stitch from the end of the collar and your needle down, lift the machine foot and turn your work so that the edge of the rounded front of the collar is in front of the machine foot; stitch around the curve and along the top edge of the collar band close to the seam line, down around the front curve on the other side; needle down turn your work until the starting point of your stitching is in front of the machine foot, stitch onto this stitching for about 5 stitches. To finish you can make a back tack or tie off the tread ends and with a hand sewing needle tread these tread ends back into the collar band. Press the collar.

Step 9 The sleeve placket

A shirt sleeve has a placket and is finished with a band called a cuff. The placket sits on the back of the sleeve.There will also be one or two pleats on the bottom of the sleeve. These pleats sit on top of the sleeve folding towards the placket opening. Make the placket before the pleats so the sleeve is sitting flat.
The placket will show on a commercial pattern as a slash line. When cutting out the sleeve cut into this slash line for approximately 3/8 inch [1 cm] to mark the placket placement. Repeat on the placket pattern pieces.
With the right side of the placket piece on the wrong side of the sleeve, pin in place matching the 3/8 inch [1 cm] cut.
With the placket side up, draw a chalk line the length of the slash line. Make a chalk mark  3/8 inch [1 cm]  above the chalk line and 1/4 inch [6 mm] either side of the chalk line. These marks are stitching guides.
With a stitch length of 2 mm stitch up one side of the chalked marked placket opening. Starting 1/4 inch [ 6 mm] over from the cut on the bottom of the placket. When you get to the chalk guide mark keep the machine needle down and turn, stitch across the top of the placket to the other stitch guide mark, needle down, turn and stitch down the chalk line to the bottom edge of the placket. Secure both ends of the stitching with a back tack.
Cut down the chalk line. Cut from the chalk line out to the stitch guides forming a 'V'. Cut as close to the turning stitch as possible without cutting the stitch.
Turn in the seam allowance on both sides of the placket and press.
Turn your sleeve over and pull the placket though the placket cut.
The under side of the placket is now folded back on itself . Press. The placket should measure 1/2 inch [ 1.2 cm] wide. Pin in place and edge stitch down the outside edge to attach to the sleeve.
Fold the seam allowance at the top of the placket front in and press.  Fold the placket front in half so that it is sitting on top of the under placket. Pin in place. Press the seam allowance under at the top of the placket so that it forms a pointed 'V ' shape. The front placket should measure 1/2 inch [ 1.2cm ] wide.
On the wrong side of the sleeve placket there will be a folded line created from the two cut lines forming a 'V'  pin across this fold line. Edge stitch up the outside edge of the front placket starting at the raw bottom edge, around the edge of the top 'V' and down to the pin marking the fold line. Remove the pin and stitch across the fold line. Using a machine stitch length of 2mm and securing both end of the stitching with a back tack.
Make the pleat[s] on the bottom of the sleeve and machine stitch cross just blow the seam allowance to hold.
Step 10 The cuff
The cuff can be made from two pattern pieces or one folded in half.  Cut interfacing for one side of the cuff and press in place using manufacturers instructions. Mark the seam allowance where it intercepts the top and side seam allowances. These are stitch guides.
With right sides together stitch down one side of the cuff, across the bottom and up the other side. The stitching will start and finish on the marked stitch guides, and securing both ends of stitching with a bar tack. Press the seam allowance open and flat. Trim back the corners before turning the cuff to the right side.
If you are making a one piece cuff, fold the cuff in half right sides together and stitch down both sides as with the two piece cuff.
Press the front side of the cuff top seam allowance under. Put aside until the sleeve is attached to the shirt body and the side seam is done
Step 11 Attaching the sleeve
Pin the sleeve head into the shirt armhole, matching the front and back notch point plus the shoulder point. Machine stitch in place using a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm, and securing both ends of the stitching with a back tack. Press the seam allowance towards the shirt body, and serge along the edge of the seam allowance . You can also attach the sleeve to the shirt armhole using a french seam. Turn the sleeve to the right side and top stitch close the the stitching line. [ this step is optional]
Step 12  The side seam
Fold the shirt to the wrong side so the right sides are together at the side seam and under arm. Pin in place matching the notch points and under arm seam. Machine stitch up the shirt side seam and down the under arm of the sleeve using a stitch length of 2.5-3 mm and securing both ends of the stitching with a back tack. Serge down the raw edge of the seam allowance, press the seam towards the back and top stitch close to the seam line. This seam can also be a french seam.
Step 13  Attaching the cuff

Pin the right side of the back of the cuff to the wrong side of the bottom sleeve edge starting at the under placket edge to the front placket edge. Machine stitch across to attach using a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm and securing both ends of the stitching with a bar tack. Turn the cuff to the right side and pin the folded top edge of the front cuff so that it buts up to the stitching line. Pin in place before machine stitching across the top of the cuff, down the side edge, across the bottom edge and up the side edge ending back on the stitching along the top of the cuff. Stitch on this stitching for 5 stitches and make a small back tack or knot off the threads and using a hand sewing needle thread into the cuff. Press the cuff.
Turn up the hem and press. Pin in place.
Step 14
Turn up the seam allowance along the hem to the wrong side,  pin in place, press and machine stitch close to the fold folded edge. Using a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm and securing both ends with a back tack.
Step 15
The shirt is now ready for the button holes and buttons to be attached.

 .