The shirt - part 2, construction

The classic shirt has now become an essential part of every wardrobe. It can be shaped to the body, over sized, tunic length or worn as a dress. It may have multiple pockets, pocket flaps, zippers, one or two piece collar, different collar shapes, top stitching, different sleeve lengths, etc. The shirt can also be made in multiple fabric choices from the sheerest silk to heavy denim. The shirt can be made in both woven and knit fabrics. As well as the classic plain white cotton shirt, floral prints, stripes, checks and poker dots in every color and combination of contrast colors and patterns can be used.
The first step is finding the pattern and fashion fabric. This can be a commercial pattern or one you draft yourself.

Construction steps:
Step 1:
The classic shirt has a pleat at the center back. This can be made as an inverted or box pleat. It can also have a loop over the pleat. Begin by making the pleat following the markings on the pattern. Pin the pleat in place and bast stitch across the top of the pleat to hold the folds of the pleat in place.



Step 2:


 Attach the back yoke to the shirt back. Right sides together pin one of the back yoke pieces to the back, matching the notch points. Turn the back over and with the right side of the yoke facing onto the wrong side of the back, pin the yoke in place matching the notch points. The shirt back will be sandwiched between the two yoke pieces.
Machine stitch across the yoke seam line using a stitch length of 2.5 - 3 mm. Secure both ends of the stitching with a back tack.

       

Step 3:
                                                                               
Press the yokes flat making sure that they are folding over the stitching. With a stitch length of 4 -4.5 mm, machine top stitch across the yoke. To do this you can use the inside edge of the foot on the fold line. This will give you a top stitching line that is close to the fold line.

Using the foot again, place the inside edge on the top stitching line and stitch a second row of top stitch across the yoke. If you want a wider width between the two rows of top stitching use the outside edge of the foot.




Step 4:

Attach the back yoke to the wrong side of the front. Pin in place before machine stitching across the yoke using a stitch length of 2.5 - 3 mm.
Secure both ends with a back tack.
Press the seam allowance flat and onto the yoke.

Press the seam allowance on the top yoke to the wrong side. Pin the yoke to the front so that the fold line is just sitting over the row of stitching attaching the back yoke to the front. Pin in place. Machine top stitching across the yoke keeping the stitching close to the fold line. Top stitch a second row of top stitching across the
                                         front yoke. Press.
                                         Repeat on the other front.


Step 5:

The left front button stand.

With the wrong side of the shirt up right, fold the front edge over 1/4 inch (6 mm) and press.

 Fold the button stand along the fold line as marked on the pattern, press and pin in place. Machine stitch down the stand with a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm. Secure both ends with a back tack.
If you are using a light weight or very soft fabric, fuse interfacing onto the wrong side of the shirt button stand.





The right front button stand.

Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the right button stand. Pin the right side of the button stand to the wrong side of the right shirt front.
 Machine stitch down the seam line using a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm.
Secure both ends with a back tack.
Press the seam allowance open and flat before folding the button stand over onto the shirt front. Pin the button stand to hold in place.

Top stitch down the both fold lines of the button stand with a stitch length of 4 -4.5 mm. Make a second row of top stitching down the button stand if wished.

        

step 6:

The collar.

Reduce the seam allowance around the collar pieces to 1/4 inch (6 mm). Fusing interfacing to the wrong side of the under collar unless you want a very soft collar.

 Right sides together, pin the two collar pieces together along the outside collar edge. Machine stitch around the collar using a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm and securing both ends of the stitching with a back tack. Be careful to keep the stitching straight. If you have a rounded collar reduce the stitch length around the curve to 1.5 -2 mm. This will give you a better curve line.
If the collar has pointed fronts, keep the needle down when you turn the corner and reduce the stitch length to 1.5 -2 mm. This will help to give you a stronger, actuate front point.


Cut the extra fabric from the collar point.

Turn the collar to the right side. If you press the seam allowance open and flat where you can the collar will fold along the stitching line. Press the collar flat.

Step 7 The collar stand.

Reduce the seam allowance on the collar stand pieces to 1/4 inch (6 mm). Fuse interfacing to the collar stand piece on the wrong side that is going to be sitting on the inside or wrong side of the shirt.
Right sides together pin the fused collar stand piece to the right side of the collar, matching the notch points. Turn the collar over and with right sides together, pin the other collar stand to the collar, matching  the notch points. The collar will now be sandwiched between the collar stand pieces.
Set the sewing machine to begin stitching the seam allowance in from the collar stands neck edge. Machine stitch along the seam line using a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm finishing at the collar neck edge. Secure both ends with a back tack. Turn the collar stand to the right side and press flat.

More images coming

Press the collar. Turn up the seam allowance on the front side of the band and press. The collar is now ready to attach to the shirt body.
Step 8 Attaching the collar
Right sides together and starting at the center back, pin the back of the collar band onto the wrong side of the shirt around the neckline, matching all notches and should points.
Using a stitch length of 2.5 mm machine stitch around the neckline to attach the collar. Securing both ends of the stitching with a back tack.
Press the seam allowance up into the collar band.
Turn the shirt over and pin the folded edge of the front collar band to the neckline so that the folded edge is sitting on the row of stitching. Attach the front band to the neckline with machine stitching, using a 2.5mm stitch length stitch around the neckline. About one stitch from the end of the collar and your needle down, lift the machine foot and turn your work so that the edge of the rounded front of the collar is in front of the machine foot; stitch around the curve and along the top edge of the collar band close to the seam line, down around the front curve on the other side; needle down turn your work until the starting point of your stitching is in front of the machine foot, stitch onto this stitching for about 5 stitches. To finish you can make a back tack or tie off the tread ends and with a hand sewing needle tread these tread ends back into the collar band. Press the collar.

Step 9 The sleeve placket

A shirt sleeve has a placket and is finished with a band called a cuff. The placket sits on the back of the sleeve.There will also be one or two pleats on the bottom of the sleeve. These pleats sit on top of the sleeve folding towards the placket opening. Make the placket before the pleats so the sleeve is sitting flat.
The placket will show on a commercial pattern as a slash line. When cutting out the sleeve cut into this slash line for approximately 3/8 inch [1 cm] to mark the placket placement. Repeat on the placket pattern pieces.
With the right side of the placket piece on the wrong side of the sleeve, pin in place matching the 3/8 inch [1 cm] cut.
With the placket side up, draw a chalk line the length of the slash line. Make a chalk mark  3/8 inch [1 cm]  above the chalk line and 1/4 inch [6 mm] either side of the chalk line. These marks are stitching guides.
With a stitch length of 2 mm stitch up one side of the chalked marked placket opening. Starting 1/4 inch [ 6 mm] over from the cut on the bottom of the placket. When you get to the chalk guide mark keep the machine needle down and turn, stitch across the top of the placket to the other stitch guide mark, needle down, turn and stitch down the chalk line to the bottom edge of the placket. Secure both ends of the stitching with a back tack.
Cut down the chalk line. Cut from the chalk line out to the stitch guides forming a 'V'. Cut as close to the turning stitch as possible without cutting the stitch.
Turn in the seam allowance on both sides of the placket and press.
Turn your sleeve over and pull the placket though the placket cut.
The under side of the placket is now folded back on itself . Press. The placket should measure 1/2 inch [ 1.2 cm] wide. Pin in place and edge stitch down the outside edge to attach to the sleeve.
Fold the seam allowance at the top of the placket front in and press.  Fold the placket front in half so that it is sitting on top of the under placket. Pin in place. Press the seam allowance under at the top of the placket so that it forms a pointed 'V ' shape. The front placket should measure 1/2 inch [ 1.2cm ] wide.
On the wrong side of the sleeve placket there will be a folded line created from the two cut lines forming a 'V'  pin across this fold line. Edge stitch up the outside edge of the front placket starting at the raw bottom edge, around the edge of the top 'V' and down to the pin marking the fold line. Remove the pin and stitch across the fold line. Using a machine stitch length of 2mm and securing both end of the stitching with a back tack.
Make the pleat[s] on the bottom of the sleeve and machine stitch cross just blow the seam allowance to hold.
Step 10 The cuff
The cuff can be made from two pattern pieces or one folded in half.  Cut interfacing for one side of the cuff and press in place using manufacturers instructions. Mark the seam allowance where it intercepts the top and side seam allowances. These are stitch guides.
With right sides together stitch down one side of the cuff, across the bottom and up the other side. The stitching will start and finish on the marked stitch guides, and securing both ends of stitching with a bar tack. Press the seam allowance open and flat. Trim back the corners before turning the cuff to the right side.
If you are making a one piece cuff, fold the cuff in half right sides together and stitch down both sides as with the two piece cuff.
Press the front side of the cuff top seam allowance under. Put aside until the sleeve is attached to the shirt body and the side seam is done
Step 11 Attaching the sleeve
Pin the sleeve head into the shirt armhole, matching the front and back notch point plus the shoulder point. Machine stitch in place using a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm, and securing both ends of the stitching with a back tack. Press the seam allowance towards the shirt body, and serge along the edge of the seam allowance . You can also attach the sleeve to the shirt armhole using a french seam. Turn the sleeve to the right side and top stitch close the the stitching line. [ this step is optional]
Step 12  The side seam
Fold the shirt to the wrong side so the right sides are together at the side seam and under arm. Pin in place matching the notch points and under arm seam. Machine stitch up the shirt side seam and down the under arm of the sleeve using a stitch length of 2.5-3 mm and securing both ends of the stitching with a back tack. Serge down the raw edge of the seam allowance, press the seam towards the back and top stitch close to the seam line. This seam can also be a french seam.
Step 13  Attaching the cuff

Pin the right side of the back of the cuff to the wrong side of the bottom sleeve edge starting at the under placket edge to the front placket edge. Machine stitch across to attach using a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm and securing both ends of the stitching with a bar tack. Turn the cuff to the right side and pin the folded top edge of the front cuff so that it buts up to the stitching line. Pin in place before machine stitching across the top of the cuff, down the side edge, across the bottom edge and up the side edge ending back on the stitching along the top of the cuff. Stitch on this stitching for 5 stitches and make a small back tack or knot off the threads and using a hand sewing needle thread into the cuff. Press the cuff.
Turn up the hem and press. Pin in place.
Step 14
Turn up the seam allowance along the hem to the wrong side,  pin in place, press and machine stitch close to the fold folded edge. Using a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm and securing both ends with a back tack.
Step 15
The shirt is now ready for the button holes and buttons to be attached.

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