Rosette Collar Jacket by Romeo Gigli yes! he's back, designing an exclusive capsule collection for the HK store, Joyce. Swoon
Perhaps one of Balenciaga's greatest desires was to search for the perfect sleeve. He believed that a sleeve should adhere to the body, be its natural extension, and fall without the slightest flaw. It should be supple enough to allow movement but without dragging on the rest of the silhouette. (Pamela Golbin and Fabein Baron,Balenciaga Paris)
While there are many styles of sleeves the two piece or tailored sleeve is generally used for coats and jackets. If you return to Week 2, Menswear I have the instructions for drafting a sleeve and turning it into a two piece sleeve.
 Begin by comparing the measurement of your armhole with your two pattern sleeve pieces by measuring around the seam line on the patterns but not including the seam allowances. The two sleeve pieces should be 1 1/2-2 inches (3.3-5 cm) larger than the armhole. Without this ease the sleeve will not fall gracefully from the shoulder.
Adjust the sleeve pattern pieces by adding or subtracting the top edge of the upper sleeve only. The under sleeve is not adjusted.
Now check the length of the sleeve and make any adjustment at the elbow line.
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| kriss van assche |
Make a muslin toile for the sleeve from your adjusted pattern pieces and baste stitch them into the armholes of the jacket matching the 4 notch points and evenly distributing the ease.
(There will be some puckering in the muslin sleeve cap that will disappear in the garment fabric)
Check the side view of the sleeve. If you have the sleeve correctly balanced the grain line will hang in a vertical line from the shoulder point to the floor. There should be no pulling in the front or back sleeve cap.
Tailored Fashion Design, page 129
Rotate the sleeve forward or backwards until the creases disappear; chalk mark the front and back notch points on both the jacket body and sleeve; chalk mark the shoulder point on the sleeve head and transfer these markings to your pattern.
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| Cutter and tailor, This is what often happens in the back. As soon as the wearer is moving his arms forward his arm is restricted by the shape of the armhole; reset the sleeve letting out though the back of the jacket |
Recheck the sleeve length and make any correction.
Cut the sleeve out in your fabric; keeping the top sleeve pieces together stretch the back curve of the top sleeve approximately 4 inches (10 cm) at the elbow, turn the top sleeve over and repeat; stitch the under sleeve to the top sleeve down the under arm seam line and press open;
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reinforce the lower hem edge with a 5 inch ( 12.5 cm) strip of bias cut pocketing or fusible interfacing; place approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) up from the raw edge and fuse or baste stitch the pocketing in place if using.
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 Fold and press the vents and then the hem on the back of the top sleeve; mitre the hem and vent at the top vent to remove bulk; (Page 131, Tailored Fashion Design) Fold the hem back so that the right sides t are together on the under vent and machine stitch down the hem; fold the hem under to the wrong side and press the vents and hem in place; baste stitch along the top of the hem.
Mark the buttonhole placements on the under sleeve vent the first 1 1/4 inches ( 3cm) up from the lower edge of the sleeve and the top button placement, each button is placed 5/8 inch apart; make a mark 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) above the last button placement mark to indicate the seam ending.
Stitch the top and under sleeves together down the back seam line to the chalk mark; press the seam open, shrink out any puckers in the seam allowance so that the seam allowance in laying flat; baste stitch the vent closed.
Setting the sleeve
 The sleeve is set into the jacket armhole the same way as the muslin sleeve but this time the ease in the sleeve head is going to be removed. Along the edge of the top sleeve work a line of running stitches; place the sleeve cap over a tailors ham and with a damp cloth shrink out the fullness in the seam allowance; let the sleeve cap dry completely before removing it from the ham.
Place the left sleeve into the left armhole with the right sides together and pin in place at the shoulder point, underarm and front and back notch points. Baste stitch the sleeve in place beginning at the front notch point and working up towards the shoulder point. slightly increase the amount of ease in the sleeve cap as you get closer to the shoulder. Continue baste stitching over the shoulder and down to the back notch point. Turn the sleeve to the right side and with your fist inside the shoulder check that the sleeve looks correct in the front: if not unpick the stitching and start again.Finish baste stitching the sleeve in place. Press and shrink out any wrinkles in the seam allowance.
Machine stitch the sleeve in place starting at the back notch point stitch around the under arm of the sleeve, up the front, over the shoulder being careful not to move any ease as you go and down the back of the sleeve to the notch point. Press the seam allowance into the sleeve.
The sleeve head
 The sleeve head is a strip of cotton wadding covered with muslin. It may also have a strip of bias cut hair canvas. Place the edge of the sleeve head along the edge of the seam allowance facing into the sleeve, starting at the front notch point and machine stitch the sleeve head to the seam allowance finishing approximately 2 inches below the back notch point. Cut off any extra sleeve head.
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