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| Thom Browne Fall 2016 |
I was not going to cover drafting a jacket block but after meeting with my students I found there was a really big interest in learning now to draft for individual body measurements or bespoke.
A chest circumference
B waist
C front chest
D sleeve length
E jacket length
F back waist length
G back shoulder blades, armhole to armhole
H shoulder length, neck to armhole
The measurements needed for the jacket body : 1/2 the total chest measurement + 3 1/2 inches
( 8.89 cm) for ease
1/2 the measurement cross the back shoulder blades
1/2 the measurement front chest
Step 1
1-2 is the back waist length, draw a straight line down your paper; 1-3 is 1/2 the chest measurement + ease, draw across from 1; draw down from 3 and across from 2 to form a rectangleStep 2
Step 3
Measure across the chest line from 6 half the chest front + 3/8 inch (1 cm) for ease, mark as 7 and draw a line that passes though 7 down to the waist line and up to the top line;Measure across from 4 half the shoulder blade measurement - 1/4 inch (6 mm) , mark as 9; and draw a line that passes though 9 down to the waist line and up to the top line;
Divide 6-7 in half, mark as 8; draw a line that passes though 8 down to the waist line and up to the top line;
Divide 7-9 in half, mark as 10 and draw a line down to the waist line for the side seam
Step 4
Measure across from 1 to the first line, mark as 12; 11 is the measurement 1-12, square across and mark as 13; measure up from 13 3/4 inch ( 1.90 cm) and mark as 14; draw a line from 11 up to 14
Step 5
Draw a line angled down from C the shoulder length - 1/8 inch (3 mm) to touch the shoulder position guide line, mark as E; divide C-E in half and mark;
measure down from 12 the length of D-E - 3/8 inch (1 cm), mark as G on the shoulder guide line;
measure down from 3, 1/8 inch ( 3 mm) , mark as F. F-4 is the centre back line
H is 1/3 of 11-14, mark.
Step 6
Divide the line 15-7 into 3; measure up from 7 1/3, mark as I ; draw a line down from I to connect to 10; divide I-10 in half and draw a line that angles down to 7; divide this line in half and mark for a guide;
measure back from 10 on the chest line 1 inch (2.5 cm) and mark a K;
Draw a line up from I-G ; measure down from 15, 1/3, mark and square out to J 1/4 inch ( 6 mm), mark J;
Divide the line from 16-9 in half and mark as L; draw a line from L down to 10; Square off along the line between L, 10 and 9, draw a line to connect to L-10; divide this line into 3 and mark for a guide.
Using a french curve draw in the armhole shape by connecting G-J- I pass though the guide mark out from 7 around to K -10 around to the first guide mark up to L-E;
Shape the back shoulder by drawing a line that curves up from the mark to D; draw in the back neck with a curved line from D-F;
Draw a curved line from H-12. Keep the line H to 11 as a straight line.
Measure down from the centre front waistline 8 inches ( 20.4 cm) and square across to the centre back line; mark as the hip line; measure down the centre back the jacket length and square across to the centre front line, mark as the hem line.
Shaping the jacket
On the centre back divide the the line from the back neck down the the chest line in half and mark as A;
B is on the waistline; measure in from B, 1 inch (2.5 cm) and mark as C; repeat on the hem line, D and connecting
A-C-D;
Measure up 3 inches (7.5 cm) at the chest line on the back guide line into the armhole and mark as F
Mark H on the waist line and measure across towards the centre back 7/8 inch (2.2 cm) and mark as E; connect F-E with a slightly curving line and E -I with a line that curves towards the jacket front
Measure across from H 7/8 inch (2.2 cm) and mark as G;
measure across from I, 1 inch (2.5 cm) on the hemline towards the centre back and mark as K; Connect F-G with a slightly curved line and G-K with a line that curves out
towards the back;
Front side panel
Measure up from the chest line on the front guide line to the armhole 1 1/2 inches (3.8 cm), mark as 21; measure across from 21 towards the front 3/8 inch (1 cm), mark as 20;
measure across towards the back on the front guide line at the waist 1/2 inches ( 1.2 cm), mark as 15; measure across towards the front on the front guide line at the waist 1/2 inch (1.2 cm), mark as 14; measure out on both sides of the front guide line at the hem 1/2 inch and mark as 16-17; square down from 16-17 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) and mark as 18-19;connect 20-21-14-15 with a line that curves slightly towards the front; connect 14-19 with a line that curves towards the back and 15-18 with a line that curves towards the front;
measure out front 2 at the hem line 3/4 inch (1.9 cm) for the front button extension and down 1/2 inch (1.2 cm), mark as 5;
Decide your button placement working up and down from 2, mark in the break point 8; continue the front shoulder neck line out 1 inch (2.5 cm) or the width of the collar stand, make a mark and draw in the roll line from this mark down to the break point; draw a line up from 5-8
(the break point will be on the button extension line straight across from the top button placement); Please note:
If you are making a double breasted jacket front extend the line out from 2 , 2 1/2 inches for the front button extension.
The front dart
Divide 2-14 in half and draw a line from the chest line down to the hip line; measure out on both sides of this line at the waist line 1/2 inches ( 1.2 cm), mark as 11-12; mark the top of this line on the chest line 7; measure down from the waist line 3 1/4 inches ( 8.25 cm), mark as 13; connect with a line 7-11-13 and 7-12-13. Shape the hem line with a curved line connecting 5-18-19-K
Keeping the same angle draw out from 1 the desired width of the lapel and curve down to 8 to finish the lapel.
Begin by folding a piece of paper in fold; make a small line approximately 1 inch down from the top of the paper on the fold line. Measure down from this line on the fold of the paper 1 3/8 inch (3.5 cm) , mark as A. Or take the armhole height from the jacket block less 1 3/8 inches (3.5 cm);
Measure down from A the armhole depth, mark as B and square across the paper. This is the bicep line; Measure down from A the sleeve length, mark as E; square across the paper; to find C halve the armhole height measurement plus 3/8 inch (1 cm), angle your ruler from A down onto the bicep line this length and mark in C.; draw a line down from C to connect to the line squared out from E, mark as F;
Shaping the sleeve head
Divide the line A-C in three and mark as L-K; divide L-C in half , mark as M; measure in from C, 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) and mark as G;
measure out from K 3/4 inch (1.90 cm), mark as J: measure in at L and M 3/4 inch (1.90 cm, mark as I-H); connect A-J-L-H-G with a curved line for the back sleeve cap and A-I-H-G
Turn the paper over and trace all the lines before unfolding the paper; draw a line down the fold line and mark as straight of grain; divide the hem line into 4 and square up the 2 guide lines; for the sleeve front erase the line from J-L-H; mark in the shoulder point 1/4 inch (6 mm) past the centre fold line or straight of grain.Shape the sleeve starting at A, measure out 5 1/2 inches (13.5 cm) in both directions and mark as B-D; measure down from C 3/8 inch (1 cm) , mark as D; draw a curved line connecting B-D; draw a slightly curving line connecting F-B and E-D; measure up from G, 2 inches, mark as H and repeat G-I; E-K is the measurement F-H and D-J is the measurement I-B.
Two piece sleeve
The under sleeveSquare off the front guide line 2 inches (5 cm), mark as A- B; divide from the guide line to the centre line in half and mark as D; draw a curved line connecting A-D; on the guide line at E measure in 3/8 inch (1 cm), mark as F; measure out at G 3/8 inch, mark as H; draw a line connecting A-F-H.
Square off the back guide line 2 inches (5 cm), mark as J-I; measure in 2 inches (5 cm) from L and mark as M; Square off from H half the cuff measurement less 1 inch (2.5 cm) ( the cuff measurement is 11 -12 inches depending on design) and mark as N; connect with a curved line J-M-N.
The upper or top sleeve
measure out from F 2 inches (5 cm), mark as O and repeat at H, mark as P; draw a curved line connecting B-O-P; measure in at L 1 inch (2.5 cm) and mark as R; draw a curving line connecting I-R-N; connect P-N with a line.
This week the class is working on sampling a welt pocket, please refer back to my post Aug. 2014
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| Thom Browne F/W 2015/16 Straight set double piped pocket and ticket pocket |
If there is interest for drafting a woman's bespoke jacket please let me know.
Next week - making patched pockets
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| Net-a -porter.com, J. Crew patched chest pocket |
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