The Jacket Front

Tailoring 101 

The Jacket Front

 Adjustments have been made to the toile and transferred to the paper pattern and the fashion fabric cutout.

Cut the center front pattern pieces out in weft fusible interfacing. This is optional, and I can see some tailors cringing at this, as they would never use fusible fabric. The reason is that when first learning to tailor it is easier to use a fusible interfacing.

 Choose a fusible interfacing that will not change the hand of your fashion fabric.

When working with a fusible interfacing, place the two wrong sides of the fabric together on a table; set the iron to the correct or wool setting for your fabric; place a pressing cloth over the jacket front;  hold the iron just above the fusible and lightly steam over a small section of the front; you will see the fusible interfacing start to shrink; drop the iron straight down onto the front and hold for 5-10 seconds without moving the iron; lift the iron and repeat the process until the fusible interfacing is attached to the front, and leave to cool. 

Cut the side front panels out in weft fusible interfacing; measure up from the hem line 2 1/2 inches (5.25 cm)  and mark; square across from this mark until you are approximately 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) from the end of the pocket placement and mark as A; measure down 2 -3 inches from the back armhole and make a curved line down to A; cut away this section of fusible interfacing. Fuse the weft fusible interfacing to the side front panel.

Please note: Traditionally, no fusible interfacing is used. Strengthen the pocket areas by placing a strip of pocketing/silesia fabric on the wrong side of the pocket placement area.

Remark the darts, roll line, centre front, buttonhole and pocket  placements; attach the side front panel to the centre front using a stitch length of 2.5mm stitch down the seam allowance matching the notch points and back tacking to top and bottom of the stitching; pin and stitch the darts together using a stitch length of 2.5mm,  starting  about 5 stitches in from the top of the dart back tack back to the dart point  and stitching back 5 stitches at the bottom point of the dart ( this will stop the first stitch from pulling or showing on the right side of your front) 

Press the seam open and flat using a clapper and a seam roll; press the dart(s) towards the center front. Stretch the folded side of the dart rather than clipping into the center of the dart.

Make your pockets.

Whip stitch across the pocket opening





If you are not using weft fusible interfacing and are working with a striped fabric, make your dart by folding the dart with right sides together, pinning, and checking that the stripe matches perfectly. By this, I mean the dart sits between the stripes. 

Place a small piece of lining fabric under the top point of the dart, then machine-stitch the darts together using a stitch length of 2.5 mm,  starting about 5 stitches in from the top of the dart, back tack to the dart point, and stitching back 5 stitches at the bottom point of the dart ( this will stop the first stitch from pulling or showing on the right side of your front)  

Check the dart position to make sure it sits centered between the two stripes (as much as possible), with the stripes coming slightly together at the waistline before curving out toward the hemline. Check that both sides match; if not, this will alter the balance of the finished jacket.

The dart here is not centered 

Menswear

In menswear, finish the dart and side seam with hand stitching. The hand stitch used is a prink or stab stitch. The stitches are barely visible but form a small dimpled effect very close to the edge of the seam or dart. Use silk thread for the stitches. Beginning at the top end of the dart or seam, bring the needle up from the back to the front of the work and take a tiny 1/16 inch (2 mm) stitch before returning the needle to the back of the work

And here on the wrong side, you can see
       the small line of stitches worked close to
the seam line.
The stitches here have been worked after the
 canvas has been attached to the jacket front

The front dart has been prinked or stab stitched

The Hair canvas or Hymo

Using Interfacing for Structure

• Hair canvas provides shape and support.
• Fusible gives crispness to lapels and collars.
• Hymo is lightweight yet firm.
• Interfacing adds resilience and durability.

Interfacing is essential in tailored garments. Match the weight and application method of the interfacing to the fabric. Interface individual pieces before assembly for the cleanest finish. Proper interfacing supports the shape and structure of the garment.

The canvas has no right or wrong side and can be cut straight of grain or on the bias, as I have for my jacket.
Working with the canvas folded in half or doubled, lay it flat on a table and place the jacket front on top, matching the grain line or on the true bias.
Chalk mark around the outside edges of the jacket front; mark the underarm point and remove the jacket front piece from the canvas; measure towards the back at the underarm point 3 inches (7.5 cm) and following the armhole shape extend the chalked shape out 3 inches (7.5 cm) mark as A; Measure up at the front edge 2 inches (5 cm) or your hem allowance and square over 5-6 inches (12.5- 15 cm) and draw a chalk line mark as B; connect with a curving line A-B; cut out the canvas.

Divide the canvas shoulder into 3 and mark; cut down from the marks 2-
2 1/2 inches (5-6.25 cm) to allow for the shoulder bone.

Menswear
Lay the canvas onto a scrap piece of canvas so that it finishes 3/8 inch (1 cm) up from the break line and mark; pin along the roll line to hold in place; on the shoulder, open up the cuts, forming small wedges approximately 3/8 inch (1 cm) wide at the top shoulder. Open these wedges towards the armhole only, as you don't want any added canvas in the neckline. Pin in place and cut out the canvas chest piece, cutting along the roll line to the mark above the break line, across the shoulder, and around the armhole, and cutting down in a curving shape to the roll line.

Women's wear
For women, you cut more of a canvas shoulder piece than a canvas chest piece. Lay the canvas onto a scrap piece of canvas as in menswear and follow the instructions for making the wedges from the shoulder. Cut out the canvas shoulder piece by cutting across the shoulder and down the armhole until the armhole starts to shape under the arm; cut halfway down the roll line, then curve back up to the armhole.

For both menswear and women's wear, stitch the shoulder/chest piece to the canvas fronts around the wedges.
Quilt the shoulder/ chest piece to the canvas fronts in 1 inch (2.5 cm)  squares (optional)

Wedges stitched in place

The chest piece

The chest piece is traditionally made from domette or flannel, soft woven fabrics made from wool. 

 If your flannel has a grain line, it will run parallel with the roll line when you place the domette onto the canvas front. The chest piece fabric I'm using here does not have a grain line.

Place your chest piece fabric on the right side of the canvas front so the shoulder edge sits just under the shoulder seam allowance; cut the chest piece down the roll line and around the armhole to the underarm point, then curve across to the roll line. Stagger or graduate the length of the chest piece fabric so that you will get a nice finish on the finished garment.

From the front armhole notch point, draw a line across the chest piece.

Pin or baste the chest piece to both canvas fronts, making sure they are in the same position.












The pad stitching

Pad the chest piece to the canvas layers using pad stitches. The stitching runs in two directions: horizontal lines from the line up toward the shoulder, and vertical lines that follow the roll line below the line. Start with the horizontal lines, with the first row of pad stitches worked across the top of the line. Roll the canvas and chest piece in your non-needle hand with your fingers on the canvas where the stitches are being placed, pushing up so that the stitches remain small and smoothing the canvas as you work. The stitches should be 1/2-3/4 inch (1.3-2 cm) apart  , being careful not to pull the thread too tight; there should be no pulling. The second row will be about 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) from the first row

Now repeat with the vertical lines starting with the first row worked down beside the roll line .

Once this side is completed repeat on the other side of the jacket canvas.

How to pad stitch
You will find how th pad stitch on page 82, figure 6.19 in Tailored Fashion design