Part one, making the embroidered jacket

Part one, the embroidered jacket front.

To me this Chanel jacket is what Haute Couture is all about. From the first time I saw this jacket I know that I wanted to make a version for myself. The basket weave wool fabric has been sitting in my sewing room along with a lining fabric. 

A model wears a creation for Chanel's Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2016-2017 fashion collection presented Tuesday, July 5, 2016 in Paris. (AP Photo/Francois Mori)

For me I didn't want the yoke and also decided that I didn't want the 3/4 length sleeve. I prefer a full length sleeve that I can push up if I want a more casual look.

The next step is to work on drafting the pattern so I can work on the placement of the embroidery .  I love embroidery but for me this has to be simplified . On closer study of the embroidery on this Chanel jacket most of is applique. The leaves look to be from a printed fabric with the flowers embroidered onto organza then appliqued. I had already decided that I wanted to embroider straight onto the fabric. I played around with the colors for the embroidery going from strong pinks to a softer grey pink. 

The bodice embroidery follows up the princess seam  from the waist to a yoke. I do not want a yoke and I want the embroidery to start further up from the waist line seam. I'm hoping that this will give the illusion of lengthening and slimming the bodice.
Step one.
I have previously made and checked a toile for the fit of this jacket.  Cut the front and side front panels from both the basket weave wool and the interlining silk organza fabrics.
Because embroidery can 'pull in' when cutting the two pattern panel pieces from both the wool and organza I add a one inch seam allowance.
Step two.
Place the silk organza behind the wool and thread trace all the seam allowances.
When doing this keep the panels flat on a table and push the two fabrics together with your fingers while baste stitching, rather than pinning. 

The back of the front bodice showing the
seam allowances cut back and whip stitched
to the organza.

Pin the center front and side front together matching the thread traced lines, matching the notch points and keeping the ease in place. Securing both ends of the stitching and with a stitch length of 2.5 - 3 mm, machine stitch down the princess line on the thread tracing. Press the seam allowance open and flat. 

Cut the seam allowance back to 5/8 inch and whip stitch both the seam allowances to the organza.
Draw the embroidery design onto the organza and work the embroidery.

The right side of the front showing the finished embroidery.
I simplified the embroidery from the original Chanel jacket.

Place the front onto a bust shape and press to get the bust shaping back that has been lost while doing the embroidery. Stream and hold in place until cool.














Step three.
The front skirt

This image is showing the front skirt.
The silk organza is placed onto the back of the wool
and both
the waist line and lower edge have been basted.
The seam allowance, dart, straight of grain line
and hem line
have been thread traced. 

The organza is now placed behind the basket weave wool and baste stitch along the waist line and the lower edge. The seam lines, straight of grain , hem line and darts can now thread traced. 
The pattern for the embroidery can now be drawn onto the silk organza and the embroidery worked.

Front jacket skirt embroidery

Step four.

the cut dart

Make the darts in the skirt front. Using a stitch length of 2.5 - 3 mm machine stitch down the thread tracing. Secure both ends of the stitching. Cut down the fold line of the dart until the dart gets to narrow; press the dart open and flat and the end of the dart towards the center front. 

the whip stitched dart

Whip stitch the sides of the dart to the organza stitching the end of the dart down the fold line

fringe placement on the waist line

Step five,


Make the fringing.

With the fringing facing up towards the bodice, pin in place along the traced lower edge or waist line of the bodice.
Machine stitch along to thread tracing with a stitch length of 3.5 -4 mm.

the whip stitched seam allowance

 Baste stitch the skirt to the bodice.
Machine stitch across the waist line to attach the bodice and skirt together, using a stitch length of 2.5 -3 mm. Secure both ends of the stitching.
Press the seam allowances up onto the bodice. Whip stitch the seam allowance to the silk organza interlining.









Step six,

the canvas is baste stitched to the jacket front

The front edge and neckline have an added interfacing of hair canvas. I use two different types of hair canvas. The bodice neck line and front edge of the bodice  have a Ballato canvas and the skirt a medium weight canvas. These are lap together with a 3mm wide, 2.5 mm  zigzag stitch just above the waist line seam allowance.
Place the canvas onto the silk interlining of the jacket so that in sits along the thread traced front edge and neck line.

A Ballato canvas is an Italian canvas that will only bend on the cross grain or bias. Placed on grain this canvas resists folding or bending. Ballato canvas is a blend of 58% cotton and 42% horse hair.

the fringed neck line into the front edge

 Place the fringing onto the thread traced stitches marking the neckline, front edge and hem line. Cut to square around the corners as shown in the image. Hand baste stitch in place.

This is the end of part one as the jacket front is now ready to be attached to the jacket back .