Monday, November 5, 2018

Loops, Spaghetti straps and ties

When working with soft lightweight fabrics, sheer net or lace,or as a closure in a gown it is easy to make rouleau button loops from matching fabric. The edge of a neckline or sleeve may also be finished with a bound edge that continues into a button rouleau loop or tie.

rouleau (ˈruːləʊ), n, pl -leaux (-ləʊ; -ləʊz) or -leaus
 (Knitting & Sewing) (often plural) a roll of ribbon
[C17: from French, from role roll]Collins English Dictionary – Complete and Unabridged, 12th Edition 2014 © HarperCollins Publishers 1991, 1994, 1998, 2000, 2003, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2014

Making a Rouleau


To make the rouleau cut two bias strips of fabric 1 inch (2.5cm) wide. The length will depend on your design but add 1 inch (2.5cm) to this length.

 Fold the fabric in half with the right sides together.










 Being careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew, machine stitch down the center of the strip securing both ends with a small back tack. Then stitch a second row of stitching down the strip with the first stitches worked over the first row of stitching for three-five stitched then bringing your stitching closer to the folded edge and the desired finished width. The width of the strip will change with your fabric choice. Light weight, slippery fabrics make the narrowest rouleau’s.   Always make a sample first and make sure that you can turn your rouleau to the right side. Use a loop or rouleau turner to turn to the right side. Thread the turner though the middle of the rouleau so that the hook end comes out at the wider end of the rouleau, attach the hook into the fabric and pull the turner back though the rouleau.
You can use this rouleau for spaghetti straps, embellishments, etc.

Rouleau loop closure

For the rouleau button loops begin by making a length(s) of rouleau using a paper template.
1: Draw a line down the paper marking the seam line.
2: Draw a second line over from the first line that marks the width of the seam allowance.
3: Draw a third line over from the seam line the length of the loops. 4: Mark in horizontal lines
    marking the loop placement. Repeat down the column of lines until you have the desired amount
    of loops marked.

Pin the rouleau to the paper template so that the rouleau snakes down the paper pinning it to the horizontal placement lines. Machine stitch down the seam line attaching the loops to the paper.

 Place the paper template with the rouleau loops face down with the top end of the loops facing away from the edge of the fabric and with the seam line sitting on the seam line on the opening, stitch down the seam line drawn on the paper template before tearing the paper from the loops.

 Rouleau tie or loop from a bound neckline or hemline

Begin by measuring the neckline or hemline to 

be bound and, plus the length of the tie or button loop to this; bias cut a strip of fabric the required length; measure down the bias strip from both ends the length of the tie and mark; measure down one end of the bias strip only for the length of the loop buttonhole and mark; make the rouleau tie or buttonhole loop  by folding the bias strip in half and stitching down the length of the bias strip starting at the mark  along the seam line; pin the bias strip  to the wrong side of the garment neckline or hemline and stitch in place along the seam line making sure that the start of this stitching matches up with the stitching down the rouleau beginning of the rouleau tie or loop around /along to the beginning of the other rouleau tie.






The binding can also be finished by hand using a blind hem stitch.
Or machine stitch close to the fold line. securing both ends with a small back tack.












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