Loops, Spaghetti straps and ties

When working with soft lightweight fabrics, sheer net or lace,or as a closure in a gown it is easy to make rouleau button loops from matching fabric. The edge of a neckline or sleeve may also be finished with a bound edge that continues into a button rouleau loop or tie.

rouleau (ˈruːləʊ), n, pl -leaux (-ləʊ; -ləʊz) or -leaus

 (Knitting & Sewing) (often plural) a roll of ribbon

[C17: from French, from role roll]Collins English Dictionary – Complete and Unabridged, 12th Edition 2014 © HarperCollins Publishers 1991, 1994, 1998, 2000, 2003, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2014

Making a Rouleau

To make the rouleau cut two bias strips of fabric 1 inch (2.5cm) wide. The length will depend on your design but add 1 inch (2.5cm) to this length.

 Fold the fabric in half with the right sides together.

 Being careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew, machine stitch down the center of the strip securing both ends with a small back tack. Then stitch a second row of stitching down the strip with the first stitches worked over the first row of stitching for three-five stitched then bringing your stitching closer to the folded edge and the desired finished width. The width of the strip will change with your fabric choice. Light weight, slippery fabrics make the narrowest rouleau’s.   Always make a sample first and make sure that you can turn your rouleau to the right side. Use a loop or rouleau turner to turn to the right side. Thread the turner though the middle of the rouleau so that the hook end comes out at the wider end of the rouleau, attach the hook into the fabric and pull the turner back though the rouleau.

You can use this rouleau for spaghetti straps, embellishments, etc.

Rouleau loop closure

For the rouleau button loops begin by making a length(s) of rouleau using a paper template.
1: Draw a line down the paper marking the seam line.
2: Draw a second line over from the first line that marks the width of the seam allowance.
3: Draw a third line over from the seam line the length of the loops. 4: Mark in horizontal lines
    marking the loop placement. Repeat down the column of lines until you have the desired amount
    of loops marked.

Pin the rouleau to the paper template so that the rouleau snakes down the paper pinning it to the horizontal placement lines. Machine stitch down the seam line attaching the loops to the paper.

 Place the paper template with the rouleau loops face down with the top end of the loops facing away from the edge of the fabric and with the seam line sitting on the seam line on the opening, stitch down the seam line drawn on the paper template before tearing the paper from the loops.

 Rouleau tie or loop from a bound neckline or hemline

Begin by measuring the neckline or hemline to 

be bound and, plus the length of the tie or button loop to this; bias cut a strip of fabric the required length; measure down the bias strip from both ends the length of the tie and mark; measure down one end of the bias strip only for the length of the loop buttonhole and mark; make the rouleau tie or buttonhole loop  by folding the bias strip in half and stitching down the length of the bias strip starting at the mark  along the seam line; pin the bias strip  to the wrong side of the garment neckline or hemline and stitch in place along the seam line making sure that the start of this stitching matches up with the stitching down the rouleau beginning of the rouleau tie or loop around /along to the beginning of the other rouleau tie.

The binding can also be finished by hand using a blind hem stitch.

Or machine stitch close to the fold line. securing both ends with a small back tack.

Rolled hems and couture hems

Ribbon hem

Ribbon can be used to hem or finish the edges of an all over lace, tulle or sheer fabric garment. This is also a great way to finish the edge of a flounce or frill. 1/4 inch wide ribbon is the best width to use for this hem. A narrow edging lace also makes a nice hem finish.  Think of finishing the hem of a tulle petticoat with contrast colored ribbon or lace.

With the right side of the ribbon right side up and the wrong side of the tulle or lace facing you place the ribbon so that one edge is laying along the raw edge; attach the ribbon by stitching along the  edge of the ribbon away from the raw edge begin careful to stay on
the edge of the ribbon.



Fold the ribbon to the right side of the garment so that it is enclosing the raw edge of the fabric; stitch down the un-stitch side of the ribbon to finish the edging.

Rolled hems

Narrow rolled hems are used on sheer or very light weight fabrics. The hem can be rolled and stitched by hand or machine stitched. There is a rolled hem foot available for most sewing machines.

Hand rolled and stitched hem

hand stitched rolled hem

Roll the raw hem edge of the fabric by rolling it between your index finger and thumb to create a small length of rolled hem and slip stitching it in place before repeating this process down the length of the hem line.

Machine rolled hem

Fold approximately ¼ inch (.6cm) of the raw edge of the fabric back on itself and stitch with a 2.5mm stitch length close to the folded edge as possible; cut the excess fabric off close to the stitching line being careful only to cut the excess fabric not the garment fabric. Roll the hem again over the line of stitching and stitch in place. 

Shell hem

A  shell hem can be created on most sewing machines or by hand by stitching over a small rolled hem or bound edge. The shell hem is best suited to soft or sheer fabrics, making it ideal for lingerie and baby/ children's garments. It also makes a pretty finish on a ruffle.

Machined shell hem

Use the rolled hem foot that is available for your sewing machine.

Using a blind hem or zig zag stitch, tighten the needle tension to 7-8. 

Set the stitch width to 3.5-4 mm, so that the stitch is wide enough to cover the hem width with the needle just coming off the fabric edge. This forms the shell.

Set the stitch length to 1.8-2 mm. Stitch down the length of the hem. 

 Hand stitched shell hem

Make the rolled hem by double folding a 1/4 inch hem, press or bast stitch to hold in place. With the wrong side facing, secure the knotted thread in the fabric fold to hide and make two or three small running stitches along the top fold though all the fabric thicknesses finishing at the first shell indentation. Wrap the needle and thread over the hem to the right side and re-insert into the last running stitch . Pull thread thread snug to form the shell. Wrap the needle and thread over the hem for a second time in exactly the same place and pull up the thread. Run the needle though the hem approximately 1/4 inch (1 cm) 

Scalloped hem

Scalloped hems can be made on the machine which gives a small satin stitch scallop that the fabric can be cut back too. A scallop hem can also be made by using a facing. This will give you a bigger scallop. 

 Machined stitched scallop hem

Place stabilizer under and on top of the hem to be scallop stitched. Mark the scallop pattern onto the top piece of stabilizer and secure in place. Begin stitching following your machine manual for the correct stitch settings. Make a few practice runs before to get all the settings correct before stitching the final hem. 


Scalloped hems can also be made by making a template of a row of scallops the width and length that you want. Pin onto the hemline of the garment and trace around the scallop template. Mark in a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Cut along the seam allowance.
Make a facing 2-3 inches wide of the garments hem. Copy the scallop template along the bottom edge of the facing. Add the 1/4 inch seam allowance to the scalloped edge. Cut along the seam allowance. Join together the side seams and back seam if there is one, so that the facing is one continuous piece.
With right sides together  pin the facing to the hem line of the garment matching all the scallops. Machine stitch around the scallops with a stitch length of 1-5-2 mm for the length of the hem line.Secure the end of the stitching with a back tack. Clip into the seam allowance around the curves of the scallops so that they will sit flat when turned. Turn the facing to the wrong side of the garment and press the scallops in place. Fold in the raw edge of the facing 1/4 inch, press and pin to hold the hem in place. Blind hem stitch.

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Bound hems

Bound hems are a good way to introduce a contrast color, print, logo or a sheer. It can also be a good way to lengthen a garment if there is no hem to let down.

Begin by cutting a strip of fabric for the hem on the bias and twice the width plus seam allowance, the length required plus seam allowance. 
Machine stitch the bias hem ends together. Securing both ends with a back tack. Press open and flat.
Without stretching fold the bias hem in half and press. 

With wrong side of the garment facing and the right side of the bias hem pin the strip to the garment  along the hem line. With a stitch length of 2.5-3 mm machine stitch the bias hem to the garment securing with a back tack. Press the seam allowance towards the bias hem being careful not to stretch the hem.
Turn the raw edge of the bias hem  seam allowance onto the wrong side of the hem and press.
Pin the folded edge of the bias hem along the stitch line on the right side of the garment. Machine stitch in place with a stitch length of 2.5-3 mm, securing the end of the stitching with a back tack.
Press.

 Bound hems can be as narrow as 1/4 inch. If your hem is going to be wider than a finished width of 2-3 inches cut two bias hems and instead of folding in half machine stitch them together.