Waistcoat manipulations for both fit and style

 Alexander McQueen, Spring/Summer 2015  WWW.Vogue.com.UK

Samuel Pepy's wrote on 7th October 1666 ""the King hath yesterday in council declared his resolution of setting a fashion for clothes which he will never alter. It will be a vest, I know not well how".  King Charles II had introduced the waistcoat as part of correct dress for men.



 In Pepy's report he used the original term vest which was longer in length finishing at mid thigh where as the new waistcoat finished at the waist. From the late 17th century a man's doublet became a waistcoat with men wearing a frock coat over it.

French waistcoat in silk, circa 1750, LACMA.

Men wore elaborately embellished and brightly colored waistcoats though to the end of the 18th century.






 This changed in the 19th century with the introduction of the suit. The waistcoat was restricted to formal wear or to be made in the same color as the rest of a man's outfit if worn informally. The waistcoat was to get shorter and tighter,so tight that it nipped in the waist, making the waistcoat a foundation garment or corset worn to enhance the figure.

 The waistcoat was boned and made with a laced up back that could be tight laced for the required fashionable look. Prince Albert, the Consort of Queen Victoria, had a reputation for his tight corsets and tiny waist.










The waistcoat changed to a more relaxed waistline around 1850. The lower button was even left un-buttoned.  This became the fashionable look worn with the pocket watch kept in a front pocket and the fob and chain of the pocket watch attached to one of the buttons.









  

The popularity of the waistcoat remained up until the second world war. One of the reasons for this is that it added an extra layer of clothing for warmth. With the trend for more casual clothing after the war men took to wearing sweaters or jersey's rather than a waistcoat. The waistcoat remained visible up until the late 1960's, worn as part of a three piece suit. 

In the 1970's the waistcoat was made in leather and denim adored with badges and and other embellishments for both fun and fashion

  Movies such as Saturday night fever, 1977 helped to popularise the waistcoat as a fashionable piece of dress wear.

And lets not forget the movie Annie Hall also from 1977 with Dianne Keaton wearing a waistcoat

There is a strict dress code for Royal Ascot. A waist coat becomes a good way to add a fashionable color or have some fun

Traditional wear for the groom at his wedding





So now you know a little about the waistcoat lets look at how to fit and  manipulate the waistcoat pattern for style. (Please note that a basic waistcoat pattern has been used) 

The fit
To tighten the armhole              Making a dart in the armhole approximately, 1 ½ inches (3.8cm) up from the chest line, mark as A. Draw a line to 16.  Measure up from A, ¼ inch (0.6), B and draw a line to 16.  Cut the pattern from A to 16 and from D to 16. Overlap A - B , ¼ inch (0.6cm); this will cause D to move to E Re shape the dart as shown	Adding more width in the chest area     Draw a line from the neck point, C, though 16 to D. Cut along the line C to D and open the pattern, 1 ½ inches (3,8cm) from D to E. Reshape the dart as shown.
The rotund or plump figure First establish the amount of disproportion. For example chest 42 inches (106.68cm), waist 44 inches (111.76cm). Take 4 inches (10cm) from the chest measurement and add the waist measurement: this gives a waist measurement of 38 inches (96.52cm). Now deduct this measurement from the actual waist (44”- 111.76cm); this will leave 6 inches (15cm) the amount of disproportion. The line 1 – 2 is the pattern center line. Apply one fourth of the disproportion, less ¼ inch (0.6cm), from 2 – 3; connect 1 though 3 for a new center line. Measure from 3 - 4, place this amount at 5, and continue out to 6 – half waist measurement plus 1 ½ inches (3.8cm). As point 6, goes beyond 17, there is a deficiency that must be made up at the side seam, 8 from 4, should equal two thirds of the distance 6 -7. Draw in a solid line. The remaining one third of 6 – 7 is added at 5 – 14 on the back. Draw a line from C, following the pocket placement line to 10, cut along this line to C. Close the dart A–B to C, 9 – 10 should equal half the distance 2 – 3. 12 below 11 should be ½ inch (1.3cm) more than 9 to 10 – this allows for the two seams taken in the dart To add to the front length – Halve the measurement 1 – 2, draw down from the chest line at 4 and mark 3, this is the new chest line. Draw down from the neck point, 6 to 5. Square up from 5 on the new chest line to 7 this line will be the same length as 6 – 5; 7 – 13 is the shoulder length draw in.
Single to double breasted style waistcoats          Move the neck point, 1, forward approximately ½ inch (1.3cm), 1 – 2. Drop point 2 slightly; shoulder length is adjusted by removing 1/2 inch (1.3cm) at 3 – 4. Mark forward 3 ½ inches (8.9cm) at 5 to 7 and 2 ½ inches (6.4cm) from 6 – 8. (5 and 6 are found on the center front line). For the bottom edge point 6 is 2 ½ inches (6.4cm) above the point of the single breasted pattern and point 8 is raised slightly. A small dart can be made at x to help to control 3 – 7. This dart should be no more than ¼ inch (0.6cm). Also 3 -7- can be hollowed out at the chest line ¼ inch (0.6cm).	Adding a waist seam          On the pattern front drop the waist line D – C, mark down ½ inch (1.3cm) at 21. Remove dart in the lower pattern or add pleats. The lower pocket is placed in the waist seam. For a more sporty look lengthen the back at the hem line 1 ½ inches (3,8cm). The back darts can be removed and a back strap belt can be added.   Adding a collar lapel The waistcoat collar lapel is usually laid - on. It can be notched (stepped) and made as one piece or a seam added as shown in the illustration indicated by the dash line at X. The collar width at the notch point is approximately 2 ½ inches (6.4cm) at the notch point.
The evening waistcoat There are many different styles of evening waistcoats but the basic structure is very much the same. The dotted line is the original single breasted waistcoat. Straighten the neck point slightly, 1 -2; cut the point back and add a button catch at A. Re-cut the points and shorten as shown Cut the front into two sections – follow the instructions for tightening the armhole. Cut though the darts from armhole to hem to create a front and side panel. There are two styles – This style is single breasted with the buttons close together. A bold collar has been added and 1/4 inch (0.6cm) has been taken out of the crease at X.  Double breasted style. The overlap is not too wide and the buttons are well spaced. Keep the collar at both crease and edge straight. Backless evening waistcoat. The back is going to consist of a neck piece which is shown as 0-1-2-6-0. Point 1 is 1 ¾ inches from 0 and 2 is 1 ½ inches from 6. The front is cut in two sections. A – 20 is 1 ½ inches. Shape A down to B, on the armhole. B to C is going to be approximately 3 ½ inches in length. E to B on the under arm curve is 4 ½ inches as is F to C.  Create a strap across the back that will be attached to the front at B – C. Small darts can be made at E –D and F – G for fit. A small dart can also be made in the pattern at 5 to hold the front edge to the body. Add a collar as with this Harris tweed waistcoat Make a double fronted waistcoat   Add contrast piping, collar and stitching Make an asymmetrical front closure.