Making from the catwalk - continuing on

 It has been a busy week so far but this puts me in a place that is stress free and cut off from the chaos that is the world out there. Getting back to the coat, the seams have to be finished because a full lining is not going to work with all the pleats. I choose a Hong Kong seam finish and also to finish the top of the hem.

I always like this seam finish because you can have fun with it. I buy up the horrible reduced prints that no one wanted and cut them into 1 inch (2-5 cm) bias or cross grain strips just to make Hong Kong seam finishes. Think of a black unlined jacket or trousers with a black and white stripe Hong Kong seam finish, you have now brought another dimension to the garment meaning that the inside is as important to the outside. 

Slip stitch the hem from the first pleat to the  last leaving the front hem un-stitched so that the facing can be attached.

Make large crosses into each pleat to hold them in place until the coat is finished.

 

 

Now for the inner structure that makes the garment come alive. First the hymo or hair canvas, I cut this and the chest piece which I then pad stitched together.

 

 

 

 

 
The canvas is then attached to the coat front by basting up the center front line, along  the roll   line and around the armhole. Stitch along the waist line for a couple of inches (5cm).

The lapel was now pad stitched to the coat lapel.








Next the front coat edge and across the top of the lapel was taped. To do this I first draw a line along the stitching seam line and then slip stitch inside this line applying tension to the tape for approximately 2 inches (5cm) above the roll line. This is to stop any stretch in this area because of the first or top buttonhole.

The next step is to tape the roll line. This is like making a dart to make the collar roll line sit close to the body so there is no gapping.

 The hair canvas or hymo is now cut out of the seam allowance. You do this because the canvas will not lay flat it is not made to do this and you do not want a bulky front facing.

 

It may take time to hand stitch all these inner facings but there is a big difference in the finished garment, you will begin to look at what you are getting for your money off the peg!

It is now time to make the buttonholes. Here I’m going to make bound buttonholes, one because its women’s wear and two because I don’t have a commercial key hole buttonhole machine or access to one, which is so sad.

After stitch tracing the buttonhole positions make the bound buttonholes.

                                                                             

 I want to share a little of what I have been working on for my new book, Lingerie and foundations. Over the last couple of days I have had fun making bullet bra cups and samples for the bra construction chapter.

I have also been working on a corset that is going to have an exaggerated hip area covered with frills. So far I have the boning channels made and cording done.  I now now to add the boning and work out the size and shape of the hip extension.
  

Hopefully I will be able to post the finished garment or garments in my next blog!

 

Please, if you have any question ask me. If you want to know more about the bullet bra or corset  or is there is something else you have seen and would like to know how do you do that.