What details do you notice about a jacket other than the cut and color its the lapel, collar and pockets. So it is important to make these details standout.
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| Valentino Fall/winter 2014/15 Couture |
So with this blog I want to take a look at the pocket starting with the classic double piped pocket. These pockets can be functional or not. The piping can be made from a contrast fabric as in the photo of both the Valentino double piped pocket and the Acne.
They can be positioned to change the body contour as in Christian Dior's New Look, to give an hour glass silhouette. The pocket can be positioned one on top of the other as in the photo from Christian dior, one pocket just below the waistline and one on the high hip.
Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2014/15 RTW
The piped pocket is also known as jetted, kiss, besom, bound or buttonhole but what it is not is a welt pocket.
The double piped pocket is found in both men's and women'swear. |
| Acne Fall/winter 2014/15 |
The easiest way to find the correct pocket placement is to mark it in when fitting the toile. But if you are just marking the pocket placement on the pattern front approximately 3'' down from the waistline. The front end of the pocket will start 1/2'' (1.2cm) over towards the center front from the front dart. Draw a line the length of the pocket which will be between 5 1/2'' (13 cm) and 6 1/2 '' (15.5cm). This line will extend into the side front panel if your pattern has one.
(Find the length of the pocket by measuring over the back of the hand)
So now to the pocket piping which are all cut from your fashion fabric. These can be cut on the grain line, across the grain or on the bias. If your fabric is striped or checked don't forget to match up the piping with the stripe or check.
Cutting the pocket pieces as follows means that all the seams are staggered in the finished pocket so there for there are no ridges. You don't have to cut any seam allowances back it is all done for you in the cutting.
All pockets are constructed onto fabric that has been interfaced.
Cut the top piping 1 1/2 '' (3cm) wide by the length of the pocket plus 2'' (5cm)
Cut the lower piping 2'' (5cm) wide by the length of the pocket plus 2'' (5cm)
Cut a pocket back 3'' (7.5cm) wide by the length of the pocket plus 2'' (5cm)
Chalk the pocket placement onto the right side of your garment front
Pin the top piping along the top of the chalk line so that the piping with a 1''(2.5cm) extension on both ends of the chalk line. Pin the lower piping along the lower side of the chalk line so that it is butting up and matching the top piping in length. Place a pin vertically through both top and lower piping at the start and end of the pocket.
Stitch the piping to the garment front.
Start your stitching 3/8'' (1cm) in from the pin and approximately 1/4'' (.6cm) out from the edge of the piping sitting on the chalked pocket placement line and back stitch up to the pin, sew with accurate stitching down the piping to the pin marking the pocket end. Back tack 3/8'' (1cm). Repeat with the lower piping.
Note:
Starting the sewing by back stitching will stop you from getting that first stitch or thread showing when the pocket is finished
Slash through the garment down the chalk line from the center finishing 1/2'' in from the ends. Carefully clip in towards the end stitch getting as close to the stitch as possible without cutting it and taking care not to cut the piping as in the illustration. Repeat this at each corner so that you have a triangle shape formed at both ends of the pocket on the garment.
Back Front
Pull the top piping through to the wrong side of the garment and press the seam open
Fold the piping back over the seam allowance towards the pocket opening and press in place and pin.
Stitch along the seam line being careful not to stitch over onto the piping to hold the piping in place. Repeat with the lower piping.
I find it easier to finish the top piping before bringing the lower piping through to the wrong side of the garment.
Bring the two rows of piping to the right side of the garment with the two triangles at each end of the pocket sitting flat on top, press.
Cut two pocket bags twice the depth of the finished pocket by the finished length of the piping. Make the pocket bags out of a strong tightly woven fabric if you cant find silesia, the traditional fabric used of pockets. Do not use lining fabric as it breaks down.
If you are working with a light weight fabric fold the lower edge of the back back under 1/4'' (.6cm) and press. Place the pocket back approximately 1/2'' (1.2cm) down from the top of the pocket bag and stitch across close to the fold line.
If you are working with a heavy fabric such as a coating zig zag across rather than folding and stitching.
Attach the other end of the pocket bag laying with the pocket back facing stitch it to the lower piping seam allowance and press the seam open.
Fold the pocket bag in half and stitch the top edge of the pocket back to the top piping seam allowance and stitch in place, press flat.
Bring the corner triangles to the wrong side and press so that you have nice squared corners at both ends of the pocket. Fold one end of the garment back so that one side of the pocket is laying flat on the table. Press
Stitch down the side of the pocket being careful to stitch through the fold line on the triangle across the bottom edge of the pocket bag and up the other side stitching through the fold line on the other end of the pocket .
The back of the pocket bag will look like this
Press the finished pocket on the right side of the garment using a pressing cloth.
Of all the pocket construction methods I have tried this technique gives you a great looking finished pocket. There are no ridges showing on the face of the finished garment what ever the weight of the fashion fabric because of the way the pieces are cut.
I have to thank my teachers at LCF for this one.
Over the next few weeks I plan to post other pocket techniques some will start with the piped pocket. Next post - the pocket flap.
Please let me know what you think or if you have any questions. Also is there a pocket that you would like to know how to make.
Chalk the pocket placement onto the right side of your garment front
Pin the top piping along the top of the chalk line so that the piping with a 1''(2.5cm) extension on both ends of the chalk line. Pin the lower piping along the lower side of the chalk line so that it is butting up and matching the top piping in length. Place a pin vertically through both top and lower piping at the start and end of the pocket. Stitch the piping to the garment front.Start your stitching 3/8'' (1cm) in from the pin and approximately 1/4'' (.6cm) out from the edge of the piping sitting on the chalked pocket placement line and back stitch up to the pin, sew with accurate stitching down the piping to the pin marking the pocket end. Back tack 3/8'' (1cm). Repeat with the lower piping.Note:
Starting the sewing by back stitching will stop you from getting that first stitch or thread showing when the pocket is finished
Slash through the garment down the chalk line from the center finishing 1/2'' in from the ends. Carefully clip in towards the end stitch getting as close to the stitch as possible without cutting it and taking care not to cut the piping as in the illustration. Repeat this at each corner so that you have a triangle shape formed at both ends of the pocket on the garment.
Back Front
Pull the top piping through to the wrong side of the garment and press the seam open
Fold the piping back over the seam allowance towards the pocket opening and press in place and pin.
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| Back of pocket piping |
Stitch along the seam line being careful not to stitch over onto the piping to hold the piping in place. Repeat with the lower piping.
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| front of pocket piping |
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| finished piping |
Bring the two rows of piping to the right side of the garment with the two triangles at each end of the pocket sitting flat on top, press.
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| back |
Cut two pocket bags twice the depth of the finished pocket by the finished length of the piping. Make the pocket bags out of a strong tightly woven fabric if you cant find silesia, the traditional fabric used of pockets. Do not use lining fabric as it breaks down.
If you are working with a light weight fabric fold the lower edge of the back back under 1/4'' (.6cm) and press. Place the pocket back approximately 1/2'' (1.2cm) down from the top of the pocket bag and stitch across close to the fold line.
If you are working with a heavy fabric such as a coating zig zag across rather than folding and stitching.
Fold the pocket bag in half and stitch the top edge of the pocket back to the top piping seam allowance and stitch in place, press flat.
Bring the corner triangles to the wrong side and press so that you have nice squared corners at both ends of the pocket. Fold one end of the garment back so that one side of the pocket is laying flat on the table. Press
Stitch down the side of the pocket being careful to stitch through the fold line on the triangle across the bottom edge of the pocket bag and up the other side stitching through the fold line on the other end of the pocket .
The back of the pocket bag will look like thisPress the finished pocket on the right side of the garment using a pressing cloth.
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| Giorgio Armani Prive Fall/winter 2014/15 |
Of all the pocket construction methods I have tried this technique gives you a great looking finished pocket. There are no ridges showing on the face of the finished garment what ever the weight of the fashion fabric because of the way the pieces are cut.
I have to thank my teachers at LCF for this one.
Over the next few weeks I plan to post other pocket techniques some will start with the piped pocket. Next post - the pocket flap.
Please let me know what you think or if you have any questions. Also is there a pocket that you would like to know how to make.
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