Pockets - getting technical

What details do you notice about a jacket other than the cut and color its the lapel, collar and pockets. So it is important to make these details standout.

Valentino Fall/winter 2014/15 Couture

So with this blog I want to take a look at the pocket starting with the classic double piped pocket. These pockets can be functional or not. The piping can be made from a contrast fabric as in the photo of  both the Valentino double piped pocket and the Acne.

They can be positioned to change the body contour  as in Christian Dior's New Look, to give an hour glass silhouette. The pocket can be positioned one on top of the other as in the photo from Christian dior, one pocket just below the waistline and one on the high hip.


Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2014/15 RTW

The piped pocket is also known as jetted, kiss, besom, bound or buttonhole but what it is not is a welt pocket.

The double piped pocket is found in both men's and women'swear.

Acne Fall/winter 2014/15 

Lets start with pocket placement because this is important. You don't want the pocket to sit on the body where it is enhancing a body fault or positioned in such away that you cant use the pocket without tugging and twisting the garment.

The easiest way to find the correct pocket placement is to mark it in when fitting the toile. But if you are just marking the pocket placement  on the pattern front approximately 3'' down from the waistline. The front end of the pocket will start 1/2'' (1.2cm) over towards the center front from the front dart. Draw a line the length of the pocket which will be between 5 1/2'' (13 cm) and 6 1/2 '' (15.5cm). This line will extend into the side front panel if your pattern has one.

(Find the length of the pocket by measuring  over the back of the hand)

So now to the pocket piping which are all cut from your fashion fabric. These can be cut on the grain line, across the grain or on the bias. If your fabric is striped or checked don't forget to match up the piping with the stripe or check.

Cutting the pocket pieces as follows means that all the seams are staggered in the finished pocket so there for there are no ridges. You don't have to cut any seam allowances back it is all done for you  in the cutting.

All pockets are constructed onto fabric that has been interfaced.

Cut the top piping 1 1/2 '' (3cm) wide by the length of the pocket plus 2'' (5cm)

Cut the lower piping 2'' (5cm) wide by the length of the pocket plus 2'' (5cm)

Cut a pocket back 3'' (7.5cm) wide by the length of the pocket plus 2'' (5cm)

Chalk the pocket placement onto the right side of your garment front

 



Pin the top piping along the top of the chalk line so that the piping with a 1''(2.5cm) extension on both ends of the chalk line. Pin the lower piping along the lower side of the chalk line so that it is butting up and matching the top piping in length. Place a pin vertically through both top and lower piping at the start and end of the pocket.

 

Stitch the piping to the garment front.
Start your stitching 3/8'' (1cm) in from the pin and approximately 1/4'' (.6cm) out from the edge of the piping sitting on the chalked pocket placement line and back stitch up to the pin, sew with accurate stitching down the piping  to the pin marking the pocket end. Back tack 3/8'' (1cm). Repeat with the lower piping.


Note:
Starting the sewing by back stitching will stop you from getting that first stitch or thread showing when the pocket is finished






Slash through the garment down the chalk line from the center finishing 1/2'' in from the ends. Carefully clip in towards the end stitch getting as close to the stitch as possible without cutting it and taking care not to cut the piping as in the illustration. Repeat this at each corner so that you have a triangle shape formed at both ends of the pocket on the garment.

Back                                                                        Front

Pull the top piping through to the wrong side of the garment and press the seam open  


Fold the piping back over the seam allowance towards the pocket opening and press in place and pin.

Back of pocket piping

Stitch along the seam line being careful not to stitch over onto the piping to hold the piping in place. Repeat with the lower piping.

front of pocket piping

I find it easier to finish the top piping before bringing the lower piping through to the wrong side of the garment.




                                                                                   

finished piping

Bring the two rows of piping to the right side of the garment with the two triangles at each end of the pocket sitting flat on top, press.

back

Cut two pocket bags twice the depth of the finished pocket by the finished length of the piping. Make the pocket bags out of a strong tightly woven fabric if you cant find silesia, the traditional fabric used of pockets. Do not use lining fabric as it breaks down.

If you are working with a light weight fabric fold the lower edge of the back back under 1/4'' (.6cm) and press. Place the pocket back approximately 1/2'' (1.2cm) down from the top of the pocket bag and stitch across close to the fold line.


If you are working with a heavy fabric such as a coating zig zag across rather than folding and stitching.

Attach the other end of the pocket bag laying with the pocket back facing stitch it to the  lower piping seam allowance and press the seam open.

Fold the pocket bag in half and stitch the top edge of the pocket back to the top piping seam allowance and stitch in place, press flat.

















Bring the corner triangles to the wrong side and press so that you have nice squared corners at both ends of the pocket. Fold one end of the garment back so that one side of the pocket  is laying flat on the table. Press





Stitch down the side of the pocket being careful to stitch through the fold line on the triangle across the bottom edge of the pocket bag and up the other side stitching through the fold line on the other end of the pocket .



The back of the pocket bag will look like this













Press the finished pocket on the right side of the garment using a pressing cloth.

Giorgio Armani Prive Fall/winter 2014/15

Of all the pocket construction methods I have tried this technique gives you a great looking finished pocket. There are no ridges showing on the face of the finished garment what ever the weight of the fashion fabric because of the way the pieces are cut.
I have to thank my teachers at LCF for this one.
 Over the next few weeks I plan to post other pocket techniques some will start with the piped pocket. Next post - the pocket flap.

Please let me know what you think or if you have any questions. Also is there a pocket that you would like to know how to make.

The trench coat - Draft your own pattern

Every season you see the trench coat on the runway. It has become a classic, essential garment for most of us. Burberry, designed the original trench coat in 1914 and was asked to adapt the design for the World War I officers fighting in the trenches.  Humphrey Bogart wore a Burberry trench coat in Casablanca followed by Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The trench coat will traditionally have a rain shield (back yoke), gun flap or flaps (front yoke piece), cuff straps and a belt. Added extras could be epaulette's, throat latch or strap. All these details can be re styled, embellished, made from a contrast fabric or left off your coat the choice is yours.	BBCHumphrey Bogart as private eye Sam Spade in 1941 film The Maltese Falcon
I have manipulated the woman’s fitted jacket pattern into a tight fitting trench coat that will give you a fitted coat that  you can wear belted or not.    Want a loser fit; manipulate the semi fitting jacket pattern.
Manipulating the woman’s fitted jacket The coat front Trace the jacket front, front side panel, back side panel and back onto paper that is long enough for the length of your coat.
	Step 1: On the front find the center of the shoulder and mark as H. Draw a line down to B, on the bust point. Cut down the line from H to B. Join together and tape G to E and B to J. You will now have two pattern pieces. Step 2: Drop down ½ inch (1cm)  at the center front and round up the neckline to the shoulder point,  5 to 4.  Step 3: For a double breasted coat front. Draw in button line 1-2 and 3-9. The button lines are approximately 4” either side of the center front line. Add a 3/4 inch (2 cm) button extension out from 3 -9. Mark in the button placement  Draw in the front facing. The coat back Step 4: On the coat back find the center of the shoulder and mark as D. Draw a line down from D to C. Cut down the line D –C. Join H – F and C – K and tape together. Step 5: re shape the waist line as shown and draw down from hip line to the required length. Remove the dart from the side front panel. Add a back vent - follow step 15
Manipulating the woman’s semi fitted jacket The coat front Trace the jacket front onto paper that is long enough for the length of your coat and tracing off all markings.
	Step 1: find the center of the shoulder and mark as A. Draw a line from A – B and B - C that passes through D. Slash from A – B – D and across from E – D. Move M over to D. Tape together. You will now have two pattern pieces.
	Step 2: For a double breasted coat front. Draw in button line 1-2 and 3-9. The button lines are approximately 4” either side of the center front line. Add a 3/4 inch (2 cm) button extension out from 3 -9 Step 3: Re shape the neck by dropping ½ inch (1cm) at the center front and rounding up into the shoulder point. Step 4: Draw in the length of the coat.
	Step 5: Match the side front panel at F as shown and trace around the side panel.Step 6: Draw a straight line down from C – H, this will be the side seam. Step 7: Draw a line from C to J. H to J is approximately 1 ¼ inches (3cm) but you can add to this measurement for a fuller hem. Step 8: Mark in the button placement. The dart can be ignored for a looser fit or closed for a closer fitting waist.   Draw the gun flap or yoke onto the front pattern pieces and trace off Draw in the front facing
The coat back
	Step 9: Match the side back panel to the back at D and trace around the side panel Step 10: Draw a line from E to F. This will create the under arm side seam Step 11: Straighten the center back line A through C to D. Mark in G on the shoulder line – find this point from the side front panel ( You do not have to break the coat back into panels if you want a looser fitting coat) Step 12: Draw in the length of the coat
	Step 13: For a fitted coat back  -  C to J is half the measurement C – R. J – K is half the measurement Q – S and L – R is half the measurement Q – S. Draw a line from G to J that will extend down to P and G – K down to O. The measurement P – O is your choice of hem fullness Step 14: Draw a line from E to H. H to I is approximately 1 ¼ inches (3cm) but you can add to this measurement for a fuller hem. Step 15: Draw in center back vent T – M and N – U,  measures 2 inches long (5cm)  draw a line down from M – N If you want a more fitted coat above the waist make a curve from E to just below R.  The center of the curve will be approximately 1/2inch (1cm). Repeat on the side front G – K.
Draw onto back the back rain shield or yoke and trace off.
The collar and collar strap This pattern comes with a collar and collar stand but because you have made changes to the jacket neck line start by measuring the manipulated neckline from the coat center back to the shoulder and down to the center front line.	(DETAIL OF LOOK 6, FALL 2012 COUTURE Jean Paul Gaultier)
	Step 1: Beginning with the collar stand, 1 -2 is half the neck line measurement, square up. 1 -3 is collar stand and collar depth square cross Step 2: 1 -4 is three quarters the measurement 1-2. 2 – 5 = ¼ inch (.5cm) square up Step 3: 1 - 6 half the measurement 1 – 3 minus 3/8 inch (1cm) square across to 7 Step 4: Draw in the collar shape and mark the shoulder line.  Step 5:  6 – 8 is 5/8 inch ( .75cm) draw across to 4 with a slight curve.  Cut out collar and collar stand
	Shape the collar –Divide the collar 10 -4 into four equal parts. Cut down the lines and spread the edge 1/8th inch (0.4cm).
	Shape the collar stand – divide the stand 1 -4 into four equal parts. Cut down the lines and overlap on the outer edge 1/16 inch (0.2cm) Trace out new collar stand and coat collar. The center back of both the collar and collar stand is cut on the bias with a center back seam. The top collar is cut with the centre back placed on the fold, add 1/8 inch all around. Add a strap to the collar stand if wanted.
The sleeve Fold the sleeve in half to find the center line. Fold the sleeve back over to the center line press and draw in line. At the elbow line shape out 3/8 inch (1cm) and in3/8 inch (1cm) at the hem line, draw in new line, cut apart.
The sleeve strap is 3.5cm up from hem line, draw onto sleeve and trace off Epaulettes are the length of the shoulder and twice the finished width. Decide on the pocket style The belt is half waist measurement plus (25cm) and twice the required width. The center back is cut on the fold.	(Vivienne Westwood Anglomania,Mercury trench coat)
Think of adding double edge opening zipper to the coat just below the waist line as in this Burberry Trench coat.   (detail of look 20, Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear, Burberry Prorsum)	(look13, Pre-Fall 2013, Burberry Prorsum)
Use the fast fusible method of construction and the machine method for stitching the under collar from my book, Tailored fashion design.

Drafting a basic pencil skirt to your own measurements

Drafting a basic pencil skirt pattern to your own measurements 

1950's skirt suits | Portraits/Photos | 1950s fashion, Fashion, Skirt fashion

Two ladies in tight-skirted suits by Whitley Tailleurs Inc, 500 Seventh Ave New York. My thanks to Jessica at myvintagevogue for the original image. Pinterest.com

Some of us like to wear a skirt very fitted to the body while others like a more comfortable looser fit. It is all a matter of personal taste. Also with this basic skirt pattern your design options are limitless.

 Look at your body shape; do you have a high hip line or maybe your hips are slimmer than your top thigh. One hip may be higher than the other, you have a tummy, all this has to be considered and adjusted so that your finished skirt will hang perfectly. Remember it is great cut that gives good design, better comfort and a professional look.

Begin to draft the basic skirt by following the nine easy steps

Step one: Begin by taking the waist, hip and length measurements.

Use the illustration to find out how and where to take these measurements. The hip line is going to be at the fullest part of your body while the waistline is going to be at the smallest. Measure the body again half way between the hip line and waist line. This will give you the top hip measurement.

Step 2:  On the drafting paper draw a line half your hip measurement in length approximately 2 inches (5 cm) down from the top of the paper. Mark as the waist line. To find the center front and back of the skirt measure across the waist line and divide in half, draw a line from this point down to the finished length of your skirt. Draw a line out from this point to match the length of the waistline. This becomes the skirt hem line. Draw down from each end of the waistline to the hemline.

 Step 3:  Measure down from the waistline 7 – 8 inches and draw in the hip line.  Mark this line as hip line. Draw in a second line half way between the waist line and hip line, mark as top hip. Make sure that these lines cross the center line at a 90% angle. 

            

Divide the hip line measurement in 4; starting at the center front measure along the hip line and make a mark. E.G. if your hip measures 36", 36" divided by 4 = 9"
Repeat on the back hip line.
How mark in the top hip line by dividing in 4 and measuring out from the center front/back line make a mark.Draw a line from the mark  on thee hip line up to the waist line passing though the mark on the top hip line. 

Step 4: Ease has to be added at the hip line so that you can sit and move. For this skirt you are going to add a total of 2 inches of ease, which will give you four equal parts of ½ inch. At the hip line draw out ½ inch at each end and draw a line from this point down to the skirt hem line.

        

Step 5: Measure in from the sides at the waist line ¾ inch, make a mark. Measure up from this mark ¼ inch and mark.

       

Step 6: Using a hip curve, finish drawing in the side seams from the hip line though the waist line to the mark you made in step 5. Make sure that this curve is also giving you some ease on the top hip line the amount will vary depending on your measurement

Step 7: Shape the waist line using a curve;divide the waistline from the centre front line into three equal sections and mark. One third across the waist line from the centre front/back line, measure over again 1 inch and mark, first dart placement. Measure over from this mark 1 1/4inches and mark. Measure over 1 inch and mark the second dart placement. Divide the 2 darts in half and draw in a line from waistline to hem line.

     

Step 8: At the mark on the waistline closest to the centre front/back line make another mark 1 inch over and divide in half. This is going to be the centre of the dart.

      

If your dart is going to be 1 inch wide at the waistline and center the dart so that it is balanced, ½ inch from the line you just drew, as shown.  Now measure down this line 3 -3 1/2 inches, for the skirt front and 5 inches on the skirt back, mark and draw in the darts as shown

Step 9: Draw in a line one inch up from the hip line over to the original skirt side. At this point you can make adjustments to your skirt. Use this line to create a dart to raise the hip line on one side for uneven hips or to hide a problem in the tummy area.