Day 3
Today I need to finish the toile. I also decided and brought the fabric this morning it is a black/white and gray woolen check.
Now on to the skirt which I have to say I have been putting off.
Pressed in the pleats on each skirt panel and then darted in the
top of the pleats so that the skirt will be shaped into the waist
before stitching them down to the hip line
Joined the skirt to the bodice and stitched along the stitching line I created to hold the two pieces together.
I like coats and jackets more fitted to the body and this looks baggy. I’m going to wait and try it on someone or a dress form that is the right size. I need a new stand; it is on my want list. I do like the hang of the sleeves and the pleats from the hip line. It is just the fit though the waist that is a worry.
Figured this one out when seeing the toile on a real person and it is fine. Have to remember it is a coat that should be made to wear sweaters, etc under.
It is now looking like the Chanel coat but can now see where I can make changes so that it becomes not just a copy.
Can see this coat shortened to finish on the high hip line with maybe more pleats added. Here is a quick sketch of how I think it would look.
Can see this coat shortened to finish on the high hip line with maybe more pleats added. Here is a quick sketch of how I think it would look. This makes it look like two separate pieces, a short jacket over a high waisted pleated skirt.
Oh, here I can go on and on but think of fringing the front edge and collar. Add leather piping and use straps and buckles instead of buttons. this could also be a detail on the pockets. But what ever you decide make the coat your own!
Last week I was lazy and didn’t go get the muslin to finish the toile but maybe in hindsight that was a good thing as gave me time to think about the construction. I now just have to clean up the pattern before cutting the final fabric. One thing I hate is messy patterns!
Day 4
Now that the fabric has arrived it is time to start work!
The woven check is even and looking at it I have decided to have the solid black stripe down the center front. 
Everything matching I hope, the bodice is cut. Starting with the upper sleeve I’m backing the sleeve top and shoulder with pocketing for support.
Fused weft interfacing from my tailoring kit across the sleeve hem line and made the mitre for the vent opening.
I then attached the lower sleeve to the upper sleeve, matching the check and keeping the ease in place.
Worked the darts in the back and front bodice pieces, and sewed together the center back and side seams.
Fused a 2 inch strip on weft interfacing around the hem line and attached the hem facing that I cut from pocketing because I think the fabric is to thick and I want the hem to sit flat.
Now the fun begins of making the skirt pleats.
This is not showing up but I hope you can see that I matched the check when making my pleats and then stitched them down to the hip line.
Oh now I decide that I have gone about this all wrong! I should have made and attached the skirt to the bodice front before setting the sleeves so that I could work the interfacing's I was planning. This would have been easier oh well too late now as I’m not un-doing all my good work.
At least I remembered to turn the hem up before setting the pleats! But now I have another problem in that my center back check is not right. Wondering if this is just me or do others mess up like this. Looking at these two panels I have 1 back and 1 front just have to make 2 more panels the same.
And had to add something I have been working on for my web page a fun bellows pocket where the side panel has been extended into a flap.
Not the best photo's as it is still work in progress here.
Not the best photo's as it is still work in progress here.
Now it's back to bra's for the rest of the week as I really do have to get this chapter finished before the end of the month.
